Mountain Project Logo

Am I a steel boat anchor?

Original Post
bmdhacks · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,633

Ok, I get it. Dyneema is morbidly static and breaks when you tie a blob of metal on it and factor-2 on three feet of it.

But me, lemme check... yeah, I flex. I'm not the same as a boat anchor.

So my question is... do we know if a nylon PAS versus a dyneema PAS really matters when they're tied to a floppy human being? Has anybody factor-2'd a crash test dummy in a harness to see what happens?

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145
On the Utility of Rescue Randy Mannequins in Rescue Systems Drop Testing

It'll hurt like hell, but you won't explode your anchor.
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
bmdhacks wrote:Ok, I get it. Dyneema is morbidly static and breaks when you tie a blob of metal on it and factor-2 on three feet of it. But me, lemme check... yeah, I flex. I'm not the same as a boat anchor. So my question is... do we know if a nylon PAS versus a dyneema PAS really matters when they're tied to a floppy human being? Has anybody factor-2'd a crash test dummy in a harness to see what happens?
I posted a test of a smaller FF with regard to the exact scenario you spoke of. It's on this forum.
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
bmdhacks wrote:Ok, I get it. Dyneema is morbidly static and breaks when you tie a blob of metal on it and factor-2 on three feet of it. But me, lemme check... yeah, I flex. I'm not the same as a boat anchor. So my question is... do we know if a nylon PAS versus a dyneema PAS really matters when they're tied to a floppy human being? Has anybody factor-2'd a crash test dummy in a harness to see what happens?
We know how much flex (squashiness) there is in the human body in a harness because it has been tested and then we use a weight adjusted to compensate, it´s been done that way since the late 60´s. The technical term is surrogate testing.
In real life we know that falling onto two quickdraws will break the karabiners and you hit the ground, Edelrid re-enacted that particular incident and came up with 27kN if I remember rightly.
Otherwise why don´t you just try for yourself, learning by doing!
Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25
bmdhacks wrote:Ok, I get it. Dyneema is morbidly static and breaks when you tie a blob of metal on it and factor-2 on three feet of it. But me, lemme check... yeah, I flex. I'm not the same as a boat anchor. So my question is... do we know if a nylon PAS versus a dyneema PAS really matters when they're tied to a floppy human being? Has anybody factor-2'd a crash test dummy in a harness to see what happens?
If you are worried about factor-2ing on your PAS you need to reassess wtf you are doing.

That being said...I field tested this once by accident (yes stupid). Not actually factor 2 prob like 1.5.

Hurt like hell but I'm still here.
Mike Gilbert · · Bend, OR · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 21
Ryan Watts wrote: If you are worried about factor-2ing on your PAS you need to reassess wtf you are doing. That being said...I field tested this once by accident
Winner of the daily honesty award
Dave L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 15

People fall on dyneema daisies occasionally while aid climbing, which is a pretty similar situation. Sometimes they break, but if they don't it'll definitely hurt and you'll probably injure your ribs.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Am I a steel boat anchor?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started