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Seneca Rocks beta for the light weight traveler?

Stagg54 Taggart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 10

I've climbed there a lot. A standard trad rack will do just fine. ie. 1 set nuts, 1 set cams. TCUs or Mastercams or equivalent are useful. RPs are useful on some routes. Be careful with a 50M. I'm not sure, but I think it would probably work (a lot of routes were put up with 50s).

Grades can be stiff. Approach anything with a plus (especially 5.9+) or anything that is not an uber-classic with caution. If you are feeling strong though, Crack of Dawn is a great climb. Haven't done it , but High Test is supposed to be awesome. Castor and Pollux are great. Don't overlook the Southern Pillar either, there is some good stuff over there - Climb and Punishment, and Gephardt-Dufty stand out. Also recommend, The Burn, Lichen or Leave it, Ye Gods and Little Fishes. So many good climbs there...

Also it may be very easy for you, but Gunsight to S Peak (direct or regular, but I prefer direct) is amazing. One of the coolest 5.4s you will ever do...

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

+10 on Gunsite. we did it in a snow squall once. Full value:)

Kirby Crider · · DC · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 25

Hi Jerimiah,

You aren't a Front Range climber, you're a Tallahassee Rock Gym climber!

Seneca is my home crag. I love it so much. Here's a few tips:

- I live in DC if you want to borrow my double rack and 60 meter and guidebook and HELMET--you'll want. You could also rent them from the Gendarme climbing shop right next to the general store. The borrowing gear thing would work if you are coming back to fly out of DC. I think a single rack would work for almost all of these climbs (though you perhaps couldn't do the money linkups like Cottonmouth-Venom and Marshalls-Crack of Dawn).

- Seneca has some spectacular climbs, pretty much all mentioned here are great. My personal favorites:

Marshall's Madness 9
Crack of Dawn 10a
Triple s 8+
Cottonmouth 10a
Madmen Only 10a
Orangeaid 10b
Judgment Seat 10a
West pole 7+ (DO WEST POLE--best 7 there, feels almost like a 10!)
Bring on the Nubiles 9+
castor/pollux 10a
Soler 7
Candy corner 6

- Other stuff: Front Porch Restaurant Pizza is decent and cheap. Bring your 6-pack up from the store.

- Princess snowbird is cheap and kind of loud from engine brakes, but not bad. Check in at the general store. You also have the option of staying in one of the hotel rooms above the general store, but they are probably shitty.

Also I'm going to PM you my email and cell in case you decide to borrow gear. I wish I could come out and show you around myself but, alas, work.

-Kirby

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Feels like a 10:) It would be a 5.9 @ rumny:)
Mad men is a 10b in my book and felt All of that!

Kirby Crider · · DC · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 25

Mad men is a GREAT route :) I love when you pull into the second wide blocky crack, wind whipping through the hole, and you reach your arm into it... only to grab the other side of Seneca Rocks!

wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10

Oh yeah the exhaust brakes while at Princess Snowbird...bring ear plugs that you can sleep in.

They really need an exhaust brake ordinance in that area. The trucks use their exhaust brake all the way to a stop. It is so so annoying.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

My nephue (serious redneck)posted a thing on facebook. "Jake Brakes, waking people up since 1953"

Jerimiah Gentry · · Eugene, or · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 50

Wow, what a fruitful yield! Thank you everyone! A diverse and helpful range of info, complete with photographic evidence.

...and Kirby: so glad to reconnect. I'll be flying into DC so I'll certainly give you a call. I guess by TRG reasoning, I am a Flagstaff Climber, but TRG certainly has a piece of my heart.

Jerimiah

Kirby Crider · · DC · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 25

Jerimiah-- the only issue is that I'll be off to climb in the Sierras June 27- July 5-- so if it's during that time, I'll be using my rack myself :)

Cheers

pokey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 25

Sorry to piggyback off the thread, but can you guys give me some seneca route beta?
I'm interested in doing 'High Test' and 'Nip and Tuck'... I take it both of these start on the broadway ledge, same as 'Orange Aid'?

Do they have bolt anchors at the top?
MP lists both of them as 120'+... are there intermediate anchor stations for coming back down, or are you supposed to traverse to the top of 'Alcoa', or do you need half ropes for these climbs?

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55
pokey wrote:... are there intermediate anchor stations for coming back down, or are you supposed to traverse to the top of 'Alcoa', or do you need half ropes for these climbs?
I've never climbed them, but according to the guide book a 60m rope will just reach the top of the block that starts nip and tuck.
Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

It's been awhile but pretty sure high test is pretty far to the right. fairly close to Gunsite notch? It did have bolts @ the top but I know we were on doubbles so would not have paied any attention as to how one would get down with a single rope?

Will Gordon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 5

High Test and Nip and Tuck both start on the far right side of Broadway. This is not the same ledge as where Alcoa and Orangeaid start.

Nip and Tuck goes up to some old tat, but I have always linked it up to the High Test anchors. A 70 will put you down on Broadway, if you have a long 60, you can swing climber's right and make it to the area where Nip and Tuck starts. Knot your ends! If you are unsure...continue up along the ridge and rap off at the Orangeaid anchors (2 back to Broadway).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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