Liberty Ridge advice
|
A friend and I are planning on doing Liberty Ridge in the first week of July. Hes been on the mountain before but I have not. He picked July to lessen the avalanche hazard, but my worry is that the crevasses will be more of an issue. Reading reports from last year and everything else I read seems to point to the fact that July may be too late for this route. |
|
Your reading is correct. More often than not by the July the route is out of condition. However, I do know that last year a couple parties got on the route around the same time. Seems like others have managed other north side routes as well. But with all of those north side much crevasse work. I personally stick to climbing such routes in May/June. |
|
You're too late bro. I doubt anyone can climb next week let alone July. I just climbed lib ridge two weeks ago. Huge crevasse to cross to the toe. There was a single 2 foot bridge there. I'm sure it's gone by now. |
|
Don't. I climbed it in late June a couple of years ago but it was a near-death experience. The lower part of the ridge had melted out and I was almost taken out by rockfall when climbing up to the ridge crest from the Carbon Glacier. |
|
Just climbed it, yesterday. You will definitely increase your difficulties greatly. Doesn't mean you won't be able to (although you might not be able). Crevasses will definitely be more difficult so it will not be the same route I just climbed. That can be said for most of the cascades though. Depending on how schrunds and crevasses form it will always be more difficult navigation later into the season. Call the rangers before you go though and you'll get the most recent info. |
|
Thanks everyone for the advice! |
|
PS, make sure to get on the ridge on the climber's right side, don't go way up the carbon on the left side of the toe. Unless you want to do some crazy M5 soloing on volcanic choss (scariest part of the route and way out of character for what is pretty straightforward, my fault, bad routefinding). You aren't by chance going with a guy named Tim, also from Calgary? |
|
Thanks again. No to Tim, going with a southerner. |
|
If it stays cold and keeps dumping on R as is now, you might have a chance... |
|
Yeah, |
|
jmeizis, you crazy f*cker! Tom S told me the sketchy route you guys took! We summitted on june 7th to great conditions at the toe. Amazing what a week can do with warm weather! |