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Wasatch scramble/climb suggestions wanted

Original Post
Merlin · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10

I've been out of the climbing game for a good long time but am looking to ease my way back into it. My wife and I are headed to the Wasatch for a week over the 4th of July and I've noticed MP has a good few routes in the 5.0-5.6 range that are long, multi pitch alpine routes.

I'd be interested in suggestions for 2 distinct types of route suggestions:

1 - Fun climbing routes that max at 5.6, have many pitches, and are well protected. Stuff like this mountainproject.com/v/geurt… or Flatiron like climbing.

2 - I'd also be interested in route suggestions for long, high elevation gain, 3rd-5.0 class peak bagging routes in the area (no gear needed). When I say long I mean 12-20 miles with 4000-7000 vertical per route. By area I mean within a hundred or so miles. Colorado equivalents would be stuff like the Gore Range or Indian Peaks Wilderness Range peaks.

If the routes aren't on MP that's fine, I'll buy a guide book.

One last question - How are the free camping opportunities?

Thanks in advance

Ty Gregory · · Salt Lake City · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 115

There is Steort's ridge, a three pitch at 5.6 or so. There has got to be a half a dozen routes of multipitch easy climbing up Mule hollow, I don't know if that is on mountain proj but it is in the Ruckman Guide. There are the west slabs of Mt Olympus, most don't even use a rope for that however the descent can be a bit nebulous if it is your first time. In Little Cottonwood there is the schoolroom, 5 pitches, and schoolroom west with 5 pitch as well, both go at 5.6 but may not be too Flatiron like.
As for 5th classing there is the south ridge of Mt Superior and after you do that you can go down the Big/Little divide and bag all sorts of Wasatch Peaks, exit out broad's fork or Deaf smith if you like to bush wack it. Then there is the Little Cottonwood/Dry Creek Divide (more or less) that starts at Devil's Castle and goes down to Lone peak nailing everything in between. If you do these two together its called the Whirl which I think is an acronym but I don't know what it is. It takes most a couple days or so, few do it in one, super freaks do it in a few hours. Then there is the Wild Cat Ridge which separates Big from Neffs and Millcreek to some extent. You can start up Millcreek, hike to Gobbler's Nob or Raymond then take the ridge all the way to Mt Olympus. Real men and real women I suppose start from the other direction on Geurt's Ridge and go all the way to Guardsmen Pass. Obviously you'll need to set up a shuttle for these or have a buddy pick you up at the end. If you do any or all of these you'll find 5th class opportunities abound, in some places on all compass points. You may want to set up some cache depots, typically there is not much water to find and make sure you take and do drugs, one in particular, maybe few others but you could get lost and not get home at a reasonable hour. You should also heft a twelve pack of Olympias if you do the Wild Cat Ridge. Its not very appropriate if you don't.

Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

As far as ridge scrambling the south ridge of superior is a good option. Guerts ridge and west slabs on Olympus are others. (Although not as long as you may want. Hey its the wasatch, not many 7k routes..) For 5.6 ish climbing, Steorts ridge, For WhoThe Bells Toll and schoolroom are a few options.

Merlin · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10

Thanks a ton, I don't understand the drugs and getting lost comment.

I should also add, I can't do shuttles, it will just be my wife and myself.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

Message me and let me know your schedule when you're here. If I'm in town on a day you'd need a shuttle, I could pick you up.

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

West Slabs of Olympus is 10+ pitches of 5.5 or less and if that's not enough keep going at the top and come off Mt Olympus.

Long route ridge runs/scrambles would be the Bullion Divide which hits 10 or so peaks or the Beatout. Basically you can run the entire ridge from Alta to SLC with no gear on the Little Cottonwood/American Fork ridge. You can work it in either direction depending on the amount of time you have and pain you want. Another big vertical gainer would be Ferguson Canyon to Twin Peaks or all the way to Dromedary.

Just about anything that starts in the city is 4-7000 vertical if you keep going and most of the ridges are non technical.

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210
Merlin wrote:...I should also add, I can't do shuttles, it will just be my wife and myself.
If you do something in Big or Little Cottonwood canyon I believe city buses are running so you could could use that as a shuttle plus its not that hard to thumb a ride in either canyon.
Merlin · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10
rging wrote: If you do something in Big or Little Cottonwood canyon I believe city buses are running so you could could use that as a shuttle plus its not that hard to thumb a ride in either canyon.
Do you have a suggestion for a guidebook or topo map? I see this on SP but would prefer something in the pocket being new to the area.
BackAtItAgain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 15

check Steorts Ridge and the Outside Cornerin BCC - both are excellent

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210
Merlin wrote: Do you have a suggestion for a guidebook or topo map? I see this on SP but would prefer something in the pocket being new to the area.
It might be in the Hiking the Wasatch book which is quite extensive. They do have a section on mountaineering scrambles. Summitpost has pages for The Beatout, Triple Traverse, and Bullion Divide.
DrApnea · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 265

Standard ridge in BCC

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,668

There is some nice scrambling in the Uintas. You can do both Hayden & Agassiz in a day.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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