Hi. I'll have an opportunity to follow Perhaps (5.7) in the Green A Gully a few weeks from now, but I wanted to ask before hand what people thought of the 2nd pitch traverse. I must admit to having some anxiety about it. How hard is the under-cling?
I'll add that when I was there in the fall, there was a stuck cam on that traverse. If it's still there, it's a permanent fixture, so don't waste your time/energy trying to free it from the wall (which I did for 10-15 minutes, before the guy who led finally let me know that it wasn't his cam). Not one of my best moments.
rging
·
Jun 25, 2014
·
Salt Lake City, Ut
· Joined Jul 2011
· Points: 210
In many places you can do a hand jam if you don't feel secure with the under-cling method. Just remember, don't fall or you will die...or at least scratch your legs if wearing shorts.
Have the leader bring a #4 to place at the very end of the traverse. That way if you're gripped about the traverse and the subsequent downclimb you can do it on TR and have the leader scramble back up to retrieve the #4. Make sure to milk the good edges for feet and step down to relax your back, being hunched over for 100+ feet isn't too pleasant...
It's actually a 15' traverse on the first pitch that has the only 5.7 move on the route. Make sure your leader puts something in after that before climbing over to the anchors. I've seen someone take quite a long sideways fall there. The move isn't trivial. The second pitch is much easier, just really long. Have fun.
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