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Mt. Moran CMC conditions

Original Post
aj2020 · · Denver · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 10

I'm a long time reader on MP forums, and I think its an awesome community. I apologize if this topic has been covered elsewhere. I plan to do a trip between the 1st through 7th of July. Either to the Tetons or RMNP. CMC in the Tetons or the North Ridge on Spearhead in RMNP. I feel like I've been able to get some pretty good beta on current conditions and snow pack around Spearhead, but I'd like to know if anyone has any beta for current conditions on the CMC. Everything I've seen is a few weeks old. I do know there was some recent snow fall. Not sure how well it stuck. Unfortunately, I only have equipment alpine rock. No crampons or ice axe yet. How doable is the CMC early in July this year?

OReid · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 35

I don't have any knowledge of present conditions, but I've climbed both routes and might have some helpful info.

First, I don't think I'd attempt the CMC route on Moran without crampons and an axe. There are significant snowfields to be climbed below Drizzlepus for which you'd want this equipment. Here's a photo from the end of July, 2011.



It might be possible to bypass the snowfields, I can't remember, but it would seem less likely earlier in this heavy snow year.

Also, it sounds like you're thinking of these two routes as being comparable in seriousness/difficulty. They are not. The spearhead has harder rock climbing, but the route is short and the descent is trivial. The CMC is much longer, more complex, and you've got to down-climb and rappel the route. It is a much more serious undertaking.

Hope this helps.
aj2020 · · Denver · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 10

Yes I'm definitely aware those two routes have different characteristics. Everytime I've climbed in tetons has been in August. I didn't realize large snowfields may exist below drizzlepuss . I appreciate the heads up! Come to think of it, I'm sure the cmc face it self may still hold some snow and water making for a even trickier downclimb.

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

I climbed the CMC route 4 years ago (in August.)

No ice axe or crampons needed. Did the entire route in my approach shoes.

Kevin Bradford · · Boise · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 228

I can tell you for sure that there is plenty of snow still lingering on the approach slopes leading to drizzlepuss that would require crampons and an ice axe. August is a better time for the cmc, especially with the huge snow year in the tetons.

aj2020 · · Denver · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 10

Northridge on spearhead it is! Thanks for the beta everyone!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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