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Handy Cap Direct
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Artist's Bluff
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Artist's Arete (mid-cliff Start) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brass Balls T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gawking Peepers S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Handy Cap Direct T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Little Monalisa T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Right Side Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Special Olympics T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Standard Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Standard Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Standard Route 5.10 variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Standard route 5.7 variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Vincent's Ear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | John Mallery and Chris Rowens 1989 |
| Page Views: | 2,358 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Apr 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A cool sport route that is a bit out of place (but welcome) at this mostly moderate trad crag... Definitely worth doing...
Stick clip the first bolt... The real crux is the first 10 feet of climbing which is powerful and technical on a series of undercling crimps... The first boulder problem ends at a jug by the 2nd bolt another move or 2 gains you a rest where you can wedge yourself in the corner to catch your breath... Gastone and sidepull your way up to another good hold, set up, and make a big move to a good hold at the top of the corner... Exiting the corner is awkward as you shift from steep corner climbing to a few slaby moves... Here you might want to place a nut or two before heading up at about 5.8 and scramble up the the 2 bolt anchor...
Stick clip the first bolt... The real crux is the first 10 feet of climbing which is powerful and technical on a series of undercling crimps... The first boulder problem ends at a jug by the 2nd bolt another move or 2 gains you a rest where you can wedge yourself in the corner to catch your breath... Gastone and sidepull your way up to another good hold, set up, and make a big move to a good hold at the top of the corner... Exiting the corner is awkward as you shift from steep corner climbing to a few slaby moves... Here you might want to place a nut or two before heading up at about 5.8 and scramble up the the 2 bolt anchor...
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