vedauwoo off width rack
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My girlfriend declared her love of off width climbing tonight after we got back from eldo and we are planning a trip to vedauwoo in a few weeks. I have doubles of camalots c4s/X4 mix from .4 to 3. I've been searching the Web and can't decide between getting doubles of camalots 4 to 6 or getting some big bros. |
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Depends on the nature of your question: which units are better, or how to best spend limited $? The BB#'s 3, 4, & 5 are outside the range of Camalots, so if you want to thrash in the wide OW/squeeze/chimney ranges then you'll need the Bros. For the BB#'s 1 & 2, there is overlap with Camalots, and almost everyone chooses the cams for this size range. As an alternative to the BB#'s 3 & 4, you can get Valley Giants, but they are special order items so that won't help for next weekend. |
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Off-width... |
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Yeah I typed it on my phone and off width got changed to off with and I didn't catch it. Thanks for pointing out my mistake. |
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Don't forget elbow and knee neoprene sleeves. |
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Pickup some 4's for sure. Wide vertical fists with no roofs will clock in around 9+ max. Vertical flared 6's are normally 10a and under. |
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I learned to climb at the Voo, and felt comfortable on MOST things 5.9+ and under with a single rack to #4, and a purple (2) and green (3) big bro. As you push 10 and beyond, doubles, #5s, #6s and more bros all become increasingly important. Mainstreet, one of the classic 10a test pieces, for example, takes 5s and up. |
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Great you guys are giving me exactly what I'm looking for. |
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I would say if you are staying under 5.10 then you would be better served getting the camalots. You would be fine with a single set of the bigger cams for most of those climbs at the Voo. Mainly 4 and 5 will get used. Borrow an extra if the routes calls for it. If you start getting into harder routes then you can pick up some BB. The camalots are easier to place and will be more versatile for climbing at other areas. Save your money. |
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Ryan Kelley wrote:Great you guys are giving me exactly what I'm looking for. She wants huge OW that WMC is describing.What WMC is saying is that the "offwidth" that your gf liked at Eldo probably did not require actual offwidth technique -- the thrutching, grunting, squirming kind where even when you send your whole body aches like you just got in a fight with a semi truck and lost. Not trying to discourage you from going to the Voo -- just be aware that the "5.8+ offwidth" pitch on Ruper is likely to be very different than the "5.8+ offwidth" you may find there. And to answer your question, get the cams. |
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Ryan Watts wrote: What WMC is saying is that the "offwidth" that your gf liked at Eldo probably did not require actual offwidth technique -- the thrutching, grunting, squirming kind where even when you send your whole body aches like you just got in a fight with a semi truck and lost. Not trying to discourage you from going to the Voo -- just be aware that the "5.8+ offwidth" pitch on Ruper is likely to be very different than the "5.8+ offwidth" you may find there. And to answer your question, get the cams.I explained that to her and showed her pics, youtube videos, even explained that a majority of people despise OW climbing and that bleeding ripped skin and general misery is part of the whole experience and she still says that she wants to do it. |
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Cams are where it's at, but doubles usually aren't necessary for moderates. In most OW cracks you can just push/walk the cam ahead of yourself, basically providing a moving toprope. This makes them way better than bigbros. Crystals in Vedauwoo can be crumbly, so having cam lobes is probably safer than the small contact area of a bigbro. Getting 1-2 4s, 1 #5, and 1 #6 will get you up alot of things. Everything, almost, is flaring in vedauwoo, so ex. if you're climbing a #4 crack, you can often place #3s in the back. |
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I go with C4s. I dont climb much roofs/overhangs where a big bro would come into play. When it hits that wide and dead vertical, I'm pretty comfortable running it out as I can general get in the crack. |
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Cams are more useful at Vedauwoo. The cracks are often flaring so it can be difficult to place a Big Bro, and as other have mentioned, you can walk a cam. |
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James Beissel wrote:after a season of carrying two #6s you will be very strong and would never fall out of that size crack.^^^ yep |
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The bigger the better there the Big Bros actually come in handy too as they are low profile and light I have an old set I actually bought from Craig Luebben back in the 90s and I have kept them for this very purpose... |
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Like everyone else said, given the choice of one or the other, get the cams. But sometimes I carry a bigbro to place mid route when I'm sliding the cam up the crack. This is just a marginal piece of mind - few things scare me as much as the idea of falling on a big bro. |