Bolts next to Cracks

Jimbo wrote:The old argument that the bolts give the leader a way to chicken out is more a reflection of a weak leader than the route itself.

I agree with the rest of your post but this argument is kind of legit IMO.

You have to admit that it does take away from the "commitment" aspect when you know if things get sketch you can always just clip a bolt. Much different from casting off into a runout knowing your only option is to not fall.

Personally, I'm not particularly into the bold R/X type climbs but I can accept that some people are and I think those people should be allowed to have their fun too.

On the flip side, you know that picture I posted above? Yeah, I clipped those bolts. I even had gear with me but if the bolts are there, why not?

You see Bob, it's not that I'm lazy, it's just that I don't care.

Ryan Watts wrote: I agree with the rest of your post but this argument is kind of legit IMO. You have to admit that it does take away from the "commitment" aspect when you know if things get sketch you can always just clip a bolt. Much different from casting off into a runout knowing your only option is to not fall. Personally, I'm not particularly into the bold R/X type climbs but I can accept that some people are and I think those people should be allowed to have their fun too. On the flip side, you know that picture I posted above? Yeah, I clipped those bolts. I even had gear with me but if the bolts are there, why not? You see Bob, it's not that I'm lazy, it's just that I don't care.

In the picture you posted the bolts would have given you a slightly cleaner fall anyway.

I don't see a problem bolting a crack if the route was designed for sport / a wall where it is mostly sport, if there is a good mixture of sport and trad in the area maybe it is best to leave it mixed. I just think it is probably makes it easier for someone bringing only sport gear to get on it without running out and taking unnecessary risk. There are plenty of areas u can go if you want to do risky climbs.

The biggest problem with leaving stuff mixed imo depending on the area is if to many people start getting hurt from running it out with no trad gear than you risk them stopping people from climbing in the area.

If it is a trad route don't bolt it. Some areas like NC they take it way to far. 120 ft 5.8 slab with 1 bolt in the middle is stupid imo. I don't care if the FA did it without climbing shoes and bolting while climbing. There is just no point in not adding more bolts. We also have routes that the FA went back and added bolted it and others have cut the bolts that the FA added which is nuts.

Ryan Watts wrote: I even had gear with me but if the bolts are there, why not? You see Bob, it's not that I'm lazy, it's just that I don't care.

hahah nice

Look at all those gear placements. How DARE someone bolt this line!