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Glass Ocean-bolts

Original Post
NjC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 0

I'm looking for info on the quality of the bolts on Glass Ocean and Sail Away. They looked liked buttonheads to me. Did my eyes deceive me?

Looking at the route description this morn, there were comments about a missing bolt, a spinner, and a link to possible rebolting that wasn't available. Most comments were 2-3 years old, so I'd love an update.

They look like beautiful climbs I'd love to do!

tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,023

I did it last spring and remember seeing one less bolt or piton or something. But there is also good enough gear that I didn't miss it.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
NjC wrote:I'm looking for info on the quality of the bolts on Glass Ocean and Sail Away. They looked liked buttonheads to me. Did my eyes deceive me?
Nope, you can see just fine.

Glass Ocean bolt. SMC hanger with a Rawl button head, looks to be 5/16".

Shot is from the Glass Ocean. I think they're all pretty much this vintage. Hard to believe those guys hand drilled that much quartzite. Looks like a 3/8" Rawl buttonhead, which would take forever for that diameter hole.

Buyer beware, but, I did that route last year (and a number of times in years past) and those bolts have always been bomber. I don't recall any of them being loose and they were all good placements, in sound rock.

Great route, I wouldn't skip it. Sail Away is fun too. Also a newer sparsely bolted variation to the right of Sail Away too. "Open Water". 5.7R-ish (a bit run out to the arete over by where the Glass Ocean and Sail Away finish up). Takes small to medium cams as I recall. Probably should pop it in the data base.

Cheers.
NjC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 0

Thanks for the helpful comments, Brian and Tenemus! The info on an extra route also explains the questions I had as I looked at the line on Sail Away. The position of the various bolts didn't make sense from afar. Also good to know the route can accept gear. I'm too new at leading to say the buttonheads aren't a problem, but I'll keep these routes on my to do list!

mikewhite · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 55

The bolt in the picture is a 5\16 button head. I stoped trying to replace them because they were so hard to get out. I would trust them anyday. One 5/16 button head took me over an hour with a tuneing fork,funkness and a crowbar.

monkey

Sam Gileadi · · Surf City · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 30

Glass Ocean is a lot of fun. It's nice to know that the bolts are solid.

NjC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 0

With funkness, huh! My comfort level with those bolts is rising. Thanks again, all!

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
mikewhite wrote: The bolt in the picture is a 5\16 button head. I stoped trying to replace them because they were so hard to get out. I would trust them anyday. One 5/16 button head took me over an hour with a tuneing fork,funkness and a crowbar.
Yeah, correct (holding a 5/16" button head and SMC hanger as I type this). Used to place them on lead a bit. Head size in the picture threw me off, looked bigger than 5/16.

Mike, you changed phone numbers. Give me a jingle sometime and leave your new number!

Cheers.
Gabriel Tallent · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 42

The bolts looked solid today, if a little dated. Still, if anyone decides to do some re-bolting on this wall, I would be happy to volunteer time, hardware, and beverages. Just PM me. Northwest Passage looked like it could use some attention, more so than Glass Ocean.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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