Shoe durability

Let me start by saying I've recently started climbing, 2 months ago to be exact. I bought the boreal joker shoes and have worn a hole in them already. I'm looking for input from climbers on a more durable pair without losing any quality (if that's possible). I climb 3 times a week at least, mainly on sandstone so maybe durability isn't even an option? Any and all tips will help out. Also, although new to climbing and mainly sport with a little trad. I don't climb easy, ie, I climb 5.10 5.11 5.12 no 5.13 yet so looking for views from all of you climbers that are on 5.13-5.14 with aggressive shoes and what you've seen and experienced with different shoes.

Where's the hole? Many new climbers drag their toes up the rock.

my experience...Evolvs rubber (TRAXX) seems to go quickest and La Sportiva/Scarpas (which use vibram rubber) lasts longer.

But I think it depends on your footwork more than anything else.

Gunkiemike wrote:Where's the hole? Many new climbers drag their toes up the rock.

Yep. Went through two pairs of shoes in a few months because of this when I started climbing.

If you've only been climbing for two months, and not to mention on difficult grades, you'll be blowing through shoes quickly regardless of the model or rubber used. Get ready to burn through many a pair at the rate you're going. This isn't going to change until you've gotten more time on the rock and polished up your footwork.

My advice: get two pairs of shoes.

For one of them, pick up the cheapest pair of well-fitting shoes you can find (second hand, if you can). Only fit and price should matter. Make, model, design, and rubber shouldn't make any difference, as you'll be burning through this pair and getting another one soon. Use these for warmups, easier climbing, and when you're working out the moves on harder projects.

For the second pair, go for something with higher performance features. Most of the higher level (5.13+) climbers I partner with use Solutions, Shamans, or Vapors. Since these shoes are expensive, only use them when for projects that are ready to go after you've worked out all the beta in your crappy pair of shoes.

Shoes/resoles are one of the highest expenses if you climb a lot & climb hard. If I don't burn thru a pair of soles in 2 months, I'm not climbing much at all (w/ the exception of indoor, where I can typically make the rubber last thru the winter, but by then the midsoles are so softened up the shoes are done for).

Yes, better foot work will eventually help, as will climbing on steep limestone. But if you are climbing hard on textured rock, expect to budget for shoes/resoles.

Harder rubber compound (XS Edge, Onyx) help somewhat (& depending on what/condition you are climbing, may be higher performing), but your midsole will still soften up. Evolv pretty much has the softest rubber & shittiest midsole, I guess that's why you can often find them really cheap.

Aaron covington wrote:Let me start by saying I've recently started climbing, 2 months ago to be exact. I bought the boreal joker shoes and have worn a hole in them already. I'm looking for input from climbers on a more durable pair without losing any quality (if that's possible). I climb 3 times a week at least, mainly on sandstone so maybe durability isn't even an option? Any and all tips will help out. Also, although new to climbing and mainly sport with a little trad. I don't climb easy, ie, I climb 5.10 5.11 5.12 no 5.13 yet so looking for views from all of you climbers that are on 5.13-5.14 with aggressive shoes and what you've seen and experienced with different shoes.

if you are climbing outside several times a week (especially trad) every week ... youll wear out shoes fairly fast regardless

but since yr a new climber its likely that hole is from footwork especially if its on the rand

as others have said have a pair of "cheap" but well fitting shoes for warm ups, moderate grads, multi, and working projects

and have a good pair of "sending" shoes for climbing at your limit

good budget shoes these days can be easily had for ~100 dollahs or less ... the cheap shoes can be quite good

find what fits you ... and when its on sale online order a few pairs once you know you favorite shoe ... you see 20-40% off sales all the time ... pray they dont discontinue the model

you can also use the resoles as "cheap" shoe ... but resole them BEFORE theres any holes in the rand, basically when the sole near the big tow becomes paper thin

BTW most folks in here probably dont send 5.13/14 ... myself included

;)

Sorry it took so long, I guess they limit the number of comments when your new to the site. I took the advice of getting 2 pairs of shoes and got more durable la sportvia shoes and picked up a pair of project shoes as well (fiveten black wings). Thanks for the help, I'll keep an update on how the rubber wears in and hope to continue hearing what you all are experiencing with your current shoes.

You climb 12's on sandstone with the joker's after 2 months? Damn... Good for you...

Not every climb is a 12, but ya I've led a couple. Thanks