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Bolts on School Room?

Original Post
SLCclimber1987 · · Slat Lake City · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 5

I'm new to the Salt Lake area, and ever since I got here everyone has told me I HAVE to climb School Room... "Its a classic!" But I'm confused, a classic with out bolted belays??? How can it be a classic if it is dangerous? I don't mind placing gear on lead, but belays, no thank you.

Just wondering if anyone had ever considered placing bolts at the belays? Not only would it make if a better climb, you wouldn't have to do that ridiculous decent around through the Green Adjective Gully. I'd be happy to help in the effort if anyone would be willing to teach me to drill.

-Jared

Tom Nyce · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 45

Wow, this post brings back old/fond memories.
In 1977, Schoolroom was one of my first leads as a novice climber. I didn't own any cams at the time (just using hexes, and wired stoppers), and I was wearing the old style "wafflestomper" hiking boots that were popular back then. I remember the climb being well protected, including plenty of gear placement possibilities at the belay stances. I vaguely remember an easy descent with one short rap, over near Hatchet Crack somewhere.
That is a popular climb. If you put permanent anchors at the belays, it wouldn't be any "safer," IMO. And there would be people rappelling down over all the people trying to climb up. Definitely not a safe situation.
edit/add: My memory isn't just based on a single ascent. While living in the area, I'm sure I did that climb at least a dozen times. Eventually, I was using rock climbing shoes, and I owned a couple cams that made that big sickle shaped crack a bit easier. That climb was so popular years before cams became available that it literally has "hexentric holes" that have been worn into the smaller cracks.

Kyler R · · SLC · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

If you bolt it, they will come.

They in this situation being someone to chop them off within hours of them being placed.

I find it hard to correlate a gear belay with being instantly declared dangerous.

rob rebel · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 5

Troll? If you dont feel comfortable building an anchor with gear you should not be leading with gear!

SLCclimber1987 · · Slat Lake City · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 5

There is a big difference between leading on gear and building an anchor. I just believe that a "classic" should be for everyone, and not just the elite that my Boulder friends warned me of here in Salt Lake.

Travis Haussener · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 60

If you're scared of building anchors try the first 4 pitches of pentapitch...either belaying from bolts or nice healthy big pine trees. This must be a troll nonetheless!

Edit: Schroolroom sucks anyway...go do Satans, Beckeys, Bushwhack, even Sweet Jane Variation.

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 101

Way too obvious. I do like the dogwood ticks though, that's a nice touch.
Re danger: look out for that penji in your profile pic. Also, the watch could get snagged on something and deglove your hand.

Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161

I started writing an explanation but there is no hope for this individual.

Merlin · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10

After I get done putting up a Via Ferrata on the First Flatiron I'll head up and bolt School Room for you. You can never be too safe.

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

Too easy to diagnose this one:

ICD9 752.64

Mark Lewis · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 260

Micropenis come back, funny shit....

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,183

"not just the elite that my Boulder friends warned me of here in Salt Lake."

That's funny! Good troll.

Tom Nyce · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 45
SLCclimber1987 wrote:There is a big difference between leading on gear and building an anchor. I just believe that a "classic" should be for everyone, and not just the elite that my Boulder friends warned me of here in Salt Lake.
In the world of trad climbing a solid novice (or lower intermediate) knows how to build an anchor, and belay another person up to his stance. It is one of the first things that you learn.
Taylor J · · Taos NM · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 390

Why is anybody even responding to this post?

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746
Taylor J wrote:Why is anybody even responding to this post?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T575Pbo4eWM&
Travis Haussener · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 60

I prefer this one

Farley

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

All other obvious reasons aside, if you knew the topography of that climb, you'd know why it can't be rappelled.

Assuming you are for real....
If you want bolted belay stations, go Schoolroom West. Take two ropes and rap down and out past Hatchet Crack. No Green A gulley or downclimb required.

In other news, the last 3 comments of this route (particularly the second to last) are of the same flavor as your original question:
mountainproject.com/v/the-n…

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 790

That's funny. Thx for the link.

RockinOut · · NY, NY · Joined May 2010 · Points: 100
RockinOut · · NY, NY · Joined May 2010 · Points: 100
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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