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list of best single pitch (or 2 pitch) overhanging splitter finger cracks?

Original Post
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

I know of gold fingers already would love to hear about more. I have never climbed in the meadow or Yosemite or really anywhere on gear in California.

SoCal Eastside Yosemite Tahoe whatever... I'm down to travel for good splitter finger cracks. I just don't know about them. I figure this is a fun topic you can spray a little about the rad finger cracks in Cali you've done. I want to hear :)

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

A couple off the top of my head:
Butterballs, Yosemite
Bony Fingers, Whitney Portal

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Andy....

You might wish to go toss yourself at this, I did and after 3 years of trying I gave up.

Vatican Porn 12B..... Church Domes.

I wish I had some photos.

Oh-yea, I just remembered this one:

The Right "E" crack, 12C ..... Rincon, Kern River Valley

And

The Left "E" crack, 12C.... Rincon, Kern River Valley

Jon Clark · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 1,158

Espresso Crack at Little Egypt
The crux pitch of The Prow at Cardinal Pinnacle

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

awesome dudes

guy if you want to go back there I'll hit that this summer with you. I'm finally getting back into shape ha

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Andy, I'll let you know. Right now I'm having a issue with my left leg, ( I can't stand on it!!!! ) just had a MRI, meeting with the doc's next monday ....
if it starts working, a Church Dome trip will be in order. I'll let ya know.

The Rincon is a winter spot, a good place to spend the winter without LEO interfearence.

josh holmes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 215

Tips and Cosmic Debris come to mind

Nick Stayner · · Wymont Kingdom · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,315
Highlander wrote:A couple off the top of my head: Butterballs, Yosemite Bony Fingers, Whitney Portal
Doesn't the title say "overhanging"?
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
Nick Stayner wrote: Doesn't the title say "overhanging"?
YES....
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Nick Stayner wrote: Doesn't the title say "overhanging"?
Yo Nick!!!!!! Lets crrrrrank!!
Andy
Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 161

The Phoenix?

Josh Dibble · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 505

the crux section of blues riff? bombs over tokyo, lunatic fringe, 3rd pitch west crack, serenity crack 3rd pitch. defiantly the prow on cardinal pinnacle.

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

Any specific grade range you're looking for? For hard stuff idk but I know a few good moderates in the mid-12ish range...

Moritz B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 185

Wunsch´s Dihedral in the South Platte CO is great.

MikeI · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5
Here ya go. Splitter fingers that overhangs 7' in 90'. Variation to Spacewalk in the Tahoe area.

"Spacewalk" variation in the Tahoe area. Splitter fingers on a wall that overhangs around 7' in 90'. Have fun.
SirTobyThe3rd M · · Salt Lake City · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 2,100

"serenity crack 3rd pitch"

That sounds like the best OVERHANGING fingercrack! Good Call!

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Ryan Watts wrote:Any specific grade range you're looking for? For hard stuff idk but I know a few good moderates in the mid-12ish range...
there's that classic subtle spray that I love about you
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

the Tahoe crack looks SICK!!!!!!

Moritz B. wrote:Wunsch´s Dihedral in the South Platte CO is great.
Colorado nah I pass on that state sorry.
John Hovell · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 65

Surprised no one has mentioned Grand Illusion (5.13b) at Sugarloaf near Tahoe. Also Equinox in Joshua tree, but that is vertical if not only very slightly overhanging.

Sasquatch Crack is a boulder problem in the Valley near Le Conte Memorial which is supposed to be quite difficult. If you're at Generator Crack there is a good but short crack called Conductor across the street.

Sorry I don't have more, finger cracks that are overhanging are usually out of my price range. :)

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Moment of Zen at Pine Creek isn't quite as low angle as the pictures here would make it look. Very high quality route and fairly stiff for 11a...it is tips, though. Espresso Crack is one everyone has talked up to me, but I have yet to experience it. Same with that pitch on The Prow @ Cardinal Pinnacle.

Why not head out to Utah and go hard on some sandstone finger cracks if steep is what you are looking for. A fantastic one at Zion is Intruder, as is it's neighbor Dire Wolf. 2 mins from road. Totally choss though!!!! All of zion is loose, wide, and sandy ;-)

the 12d crack on Desert Gold looks fantastic at Red Rock, as does Seduction Line (definitely on the list for me once it cools off a bit).

Back to CA, the Conductor Crack across from Generator Crack is a good, stout little thing. Short Circuit or Circuit Breaker, can't recall which, the one behind Curry Village in the Valley is fun. Check out a few of the finger cracks at Snowshed at Donner Summit...Monkey Paws, Panic, etc...not exactly straight in jam cracks, but finger locks and stiff pulls...

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Weston L wrote:Moment of Zen at Pine Creek isn't quite as low angle as the pictures here would make it look. Very high quality route and fairly stiff for 11a...it is tips, though. Espresso Crack is one everyone has talked up to me, but I have yet to experience it. Same with that pitch on The Prow @ Cardinal Pinnacle. Why not head out to Utah and go hard on some sandstone finger cracks if steep is what you are looking for. A fantastic one at Zion is Intruder, as is it's neighbor Dire Wolf. 2 mins from road. Totally choss though!!!! All of zion is loose, wide, and sandy ;-) the 12d crack on Desert Gold looks fantastic at Red Rock, as does Seduction Line (definitely on the list for me once it cools off a bit). Back to CA, the Conductor Crack across from Generator Crack is a good, stout little thing. Short Circuit or Circuit Breaker, can't recall which, the one behind Curry Village in the Valley is fun. Check out a few of the finger cracks at Snowshed at Donner Summit...Monkey Paws, Panic, etc...not exactly straight in jam cracks, but finger locks and stiff pulls...
awesome thanks man! now I will go scout out those or some of them at least.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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