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Routes in North Face
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Burley Dudes T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Clear Lycra T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Cup of Java S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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El Nino T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Platte Magic T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Traditionalists at Play TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Traditionalists at Work S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Way Jingus TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | John McMullen and Marc Hirt (per Hubbel's white book) |
| Page Views: | 1,618 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Jul 21, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Platte Magic is yet another terrific route on a great wall. This route offers very nice climbing that flirts with a black water streak that has exquisite rock.
This route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the 6th bolted route from the left and the 7th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus' toprope.
Begin with relatively easy slabbing to the first bolt. Some fun sidepull flakes get you up to the 2nd and third bolts. It is kind of cruxy at the 3rd bolt and eases off to sustained climbing in the 9'ish range until the angle eases off to 7'ish for the last 30 feet.
I really enjoyed wandering back and forth across the waterstreak and comparing the attributes of the water polished rock versus the rock to the sides.
This route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the 6th bolted route from the left and the 7th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus' toprope.
Begin with relatively easy slabbing to the first bolt. Some fun sidepull flakes get you up to the 2nd and third bolts. It is kind of cruxy at the 3rd bolt and eases off to sustained climbing in the 9'ish range until the angle eases off to 7'ish for the last 30 feet.
I really enjoyed wandering back and forth across the waterstreak and comparing the attributes of the water polished rock versus the rock to the sides.
Location
Towards the bottom of the rock gully, this route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the [6th] bolted route from the left, and the 7th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus' toprope.
Protection
6 bolts, but I am struggling to remember if they were modern bolts or buttonheads/Stardryves. The bolts were well-placed to protect the harder climbing, but still this was not remotely a sport climb. The climb finishes on a ledge where you can go left or right to bolted anchors (both with old bolts that need new webbing and rings).
Per rob bauer: all 6 bolts and the anchors have been upgraded be the ASCA (stamped on some hangers).
Per rob bauer: all 6 bolts and the anchors have been upgraded be the ASCA (stamped on some hangers).
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