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Quantums or Instinct Lace ups

Original Post
Dave Tremblay · · Amesbury · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 35

Im trying to decide between a pair or 5.10 quantums or Scarpa instinct laceup's. 5.10's dont normally fit my heels very well, but i've heard the Quantums use a smaller heel cup, which would be cool. The Scarpas are on sale alot and I have a pair of Vapors that are pretty good, but not very sensitive. Does anyone have any thoughts.

Trycycle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 699

Both are great shoes. Very different in fit though. Try both on and buy whatever fits your foot.

Dave Tremblay · · Amesbury · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 35

Trying them on ahead of time is the issue. None of the stores around me carry them, so I was wieghing my options and thinking of just ordering one and hoping for the best. (sending it back if it was a no go, ya know)Have you owned both? How are they different? as far as sensitivity, stiffness, edging and such?

Alvaro Arnal · · Aspen, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,535

I've owned Instinct lace-ups and Vapors and I can tell you that I loved the way the Instincts fit my feet but the Vapors (same size) felt sloppy and super insensitive compared to the Instincts. I've since moved on to Boostics but I would buy Instincts again; can't say the same for Vapors. I have a medium-width foot with a narrow heel.

Haven't tried the Quantums, but hopefully this helps you with the Instincts a bit.

Dave Tremblay · · Amesbury · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 35

Thanks Alvaro, you may have just sold me on the Instincts.

Rob DeBruyn · · Burlington, VT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 55

I'm climbing in a pair of instinct lace-ups now and I love them. I had a very similar experience to Alvaro in that I've tried the Vapors and thought they felt clunky and imprecise. The instincts for me edge very well, but have much more flexibility and sensitivity than the vapors. I think they're a great balance in that regard. Haven't tried the quantums, but I haven't found a five ten shoe that fits me yet. I bought the instincts at the same size as my previous shoes (katana velcro and solution) and they fit VERY tightly at first to the point of being painful even to put them on. After maybe the first four weeks they stretched out and now fit my foot perfectly, with that suction cup sound every time I put them on.

Alvaro Arnal · · Aspen, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,535

I don't think you can go wrong with the Instincts if they fit your foot. Like Rob said, buy them super tight; I had to wear them in the shower and let them dry on my feet a few times (will turn your feet red) before I could wear them on the rock, but after that the fit is great. I wear 10.5US street shoes and 41.5 Instincts.

Trycycle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 699

I have had both shoes.

The Quantum is a bit narrower and offers a killer toe box for very precise edging, but the heel doesn't fit me well.

The Instinct is a bit stiffer and slightly wider in the toe box. The toe is less precise and not as sensitive, but the heel fits me better.

Either shoe will do. It's still more about the climber in the shoes than about the shoes themselves.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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