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Overhanging Jugs

Original Post
Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

Are there any routes on the front range that are just overhanging jugs for days, in the 5.10 or less range?

I really want to be upside down, but I'm not skilled enough for the overhanging crimps and slopers. But I love the feeling of being upside down. At the very least I have goal, but I'm looking for some immediate gratification.

LawHous · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 481

Are you looking for sport or trad climbs?

Marathon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 275

It sounds like trad.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
LawHous wrote:Are you looking for sport or trad climbs?
I think the answer is pretty much "no" either way.
I think he's looking for Red River Gorge...
Eric Klammer · · Eagle, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,070

The Flatirons, Dinosaur Mountain to be more exact. Vertical to overhanging 5.7 to 5.10 aplenty.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
Eric Klammer wrote:The Flatirons, Dinosaur Mountain to be more exact. Vertical to overhanging 5.7 to 5.10 aplenty.
The dude said:
"Are there any routes on the front range that are just overhanging jugs for days, ... I really want to be upside down..."

Which routes are you thinking of like that? I can't think of any such on Dino Mt.
Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

Thanks for the replies. I shall investigate.

I'll be in Nashville in a few weeks, maybe I could swing through RRG.

Oh and either sport or trad. But I prefer trad.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Sounds like you should check out the Tennessee Wall

David Tysinger · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 0

Sounds like you need to go to Obed.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Nashville? Sounds like good AC is what's needed.

Mark Roth · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 14,062
Breakfast in Bed steep with jugs for days. Only 5.8

Tony B wrote: Which routes are you thinking of like that? I can't think of any such on Dino Mt.
Touch Monkey steep with jugs. Not 5.8, but feels like it.
Mike Belu · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 135

Does this route fit your description?

mountainproject.com/v/10700…

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60
Mike Belu wrote:Does this route fit your description? mountainproject.com/v/10700…
She could could have a no-hands no foot rest I'm sure.
B-rad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 40

If you're in Nashville, Foster Falls (1.5 hr drive) will give you some decent overhangs.

But Obed/Clear Creek (as Dave T pointed out) is where the severe overhanging jugs are in TN. It's about a 2.5 hr drive and well worth it. The money climb here for overhanging jugs is in Stephen King's library in the South Clear Creek area.

Climb the softly graded and overprotected "Pet Cemetery". Take a long rest . . . and then start moving out "Rage".

Rage is a completely horizontal roof for about 25ft, massive jugs, bat hang rest, fixed draws, fun moves that goes 5.11 until you get close to the lip. This is where the 5.12 stuff comes in.

mountainproject.com/v/rage/…

You may fall off into space, but you'll be grinning from ear to ear.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
Eliot Augusto wrote:Are there any routes on the front range that are just overhanging jugs for days, in the 5.10 or less range?
Mark Roth wrote: Touch Monkey steep with jugs. Not 5.8, but feels like it.
Well, what's 4 letter grades, give or take a few? Your Mother, (W Face of the Bastille) is really steep too. It's 5.12c, but you know... whatever.

Seriously, Touch Monkey is 20' of steep. April Fools (11b/c) or the S Crack on the Maiden (11a) are steeper for longer... but still not 5.10.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

basically none of these FR suggested climbs are really 'upside down' climbing though, but just off vertical climbing.

i'm drawing kind of a blank for steep, consistent, juggy climbing in this range. there are routes here and there that have short sections, but not a lot that are big pumping affairs.

the only one that really comes to mind is that steep 10d at the monkey house in clear creek.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

Futile Laments looks awesome. Thanks Tony B.

Clint Hager 1 · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 5
Nick Votto · · CO, CT, IT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Visit the Gunks one time and you'll be very happy!

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60
Clint Hager 1 wrote:http://www.mountainproject.com/v/dad-speaks-parley/106184232
Oh man. I'll have to buy a hanger just in case. That route looks awesome.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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