Mountain Project Logo

Intro to NC

BirminghamBen · · Birmingham, AL · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,620

Same as it ever was.
Y'll wanna get together?
I have firewood.

Paul Barnes · · Gainesville, Georgia · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 30

"...certainly had an effect on how Big Green was developed."

Do tell Jim...that's a history class I'll gladly sit through. I love that place but it scares the shit outta me in most cases (I still have nightmares about Joke the Chicken). That's my problem and certainly not the FA's. But I'd love to hear what was going on at the time it was being developed.

Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623
BHMBen wrote: The testosterone is manifesting here in the venue. The laughable suggestion that the SE Face of Table Rock could be considered slab is a jab at the "geezers" amongst us. Of course, there are 'doable' lines there....but, still.
What?! This isn't slab? Less than vertical climbing, mostly small to featureless granite, lots of smearing, brown stain in your pants... its got all the fixings' for slab. Not to mention the entire right half of TR is called the Watergroove Wall.

Funny GT comment T. I won't reply to Brian's comments to avoid more arguing. I will say GT is exponentially better than the small tract of boulders we focused on. Check out a few of the pictures on the CCC page of GT. I posted a few in my photo album here.
Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623
Emil Briggs wrote:chop it!
Enough said!
BirminghamBen · · Birmingham, AL · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,620
TomCaldwell wrote: What?! This isn't slab? Less than vertical climbing, mostly small to featureless granite, lots of smearing, brown stain in your pants... its got all the fixings' for slab. Not to mention the entire right half of TR is called the Watergroove Wall.
The watergroove wall, to me, is one of the best beginner/moderate slab/groove areas in the SE....
Very accessible.

To the left, though....
Over there where Doc Bayne used to hang out...
'Slab' it most certainly is not.

But, back to Big Green....
Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10

I miss Doc. One of my favorite Doc stories was putting up Skyhedral on Cow--the follow on of another insane adventure creating the Graphic Violence ice climb--and Doc snatched P2, which put us up to the base of the Skyhedral dihedral. So I lucked out and got the corner. I get up to the belay and Doc hands me a sling with 3 or 4 nuts and about the same number of cams and I ask him, 'where's the rack?' and he says, 'if you wanted anything else, you should have brought it with you.'

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265
Jim Corbett wrote:I miss Doc. One of my favorite Doc stories was putting up Skyhedral on Cow--the follow on of another insane adventure creating the Graphic Violence ice climb--and Doc snatched P2, which put us up to the base of the Skyhedral dihedral. So I lucked out and got the corner. I get up to the belay and Doc hands me a sling with 3 or 4 nuts and about the same number of cams and I ask him, 'where's the rack?' and he says, 'if you wanted anything else, you should have brought it with you.'
Ha...thats a good story Jim. Wish i'd known Doc. All i can say is from climbing Double D's Done wrong - which i think is a Doc route is that man had a knack for heady leads
Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10

He did. But I'm reasonably sure that DD Done Wrong was a John Miller creation doing the usual NC cluster--garbled sketchy beta resulting in John miles out from his last gear muttering, 'I don't think this is right...' Doc put up Zulu Warrior and something else I can't remember to the right of DD which I have always wanted to do (along with Wings of Silver) and never did. Maybe if I get back down there this fall...

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265
Jim Corbett wrote:He did. But I'm reasonably sure that DD Done Wrong was a John Miller creation doing the usual NC cluster--garbled sketchy beta resulting in John miles out from his last gear muttering, 'I don't think this is right...' Doc put up Zulu Warrior and something else I can't remember to the right of DD which I have always wanted to do (along with Wings of Silver) and never did. Maybe if I get back down there this fall...
Ah that's my confusion....McDowell and I went in to do Zulu but it was wet so we did DDDW and had no water because the electrical tape on his nalgene broke - 7 hrs on that wall. Scared shitless i downclimbed about 70 feet on the one 5.9 pitch and handed the reigns to andrew...."sing happy songs" i hear as he enters the "5.9" pitch on it way way way way out from any pro. Never again!
shannon stegg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Hey Jim, I guess it is all right to bat hook two pitches of blank wall as long as its ground up like your fallen hero did on Long Strange Trip. After all it was hand drilled. When will you old geezer's and young posser's realize that it is about the rock, not your ego's!

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

Shannon. I don't get it man, why the animosity to everything that isn't in your idea of best style? I agree we should respect the environment we are in, but everyone has their own way. unless truly egregious in which case the greater community can address it. Just a thought. Much happiness for those who don't dwell on others but improve themselves

shannon stegg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Sorry Rock Fencer, my comment was to Jim, but again nobody from this site seems capable of commenting on the facts.

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265
shannon stegg wrote:Sorry Rock Fencer, my comment was to Jim, but again nobody from this site seems capable of commenting on the facts.
well i think like five people know the "facts" of whatever it is that is being discussed. I think what is done, is done and as a whole climbing and how its pursued is changing dramatically. Take something like Wings of Steel - tons of drilled things on it. It wasn't without controversy, but stands as one of the boldest routes. My point is that we don't need more confrontation, be the better man, turn the proverbial cheek, tell your stories without prejudice towards others and the record will have both sides to every debate. If the NC community both old and young could come together - maybe we could actually gain proper access to places like GT, Chimney, TR, Wildcat, Raven, Cow etc...

never met a bigger group of self destructive addicts in my life before
Mtn. Dumass · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

You can drag your ass across the carpet and call it a route as long as you do it first. Once you've climbed it just go away. Let the next guy do it his way. It may be an improvement. Enforcing an inconsistent and confusing ethic sucks for all the climbers with a true ethic. Which is none. Nobody owns the rules or the rock. I'm not talking about retrobolting! I'm talking about stripping the next guy of his experience. I don't care who did it first! Just get the hell out of my way. I'm gonna climb this rock for my first time the way I want to climb it.

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10
rock_fencer wrote: well i think like five people know the "facts" of whatever it is that is being discussed. I think what is done, is done and as a whole climbing and how its pursued is changing dramatically. Take something like Wings of Steel - tons of drilled things on it. It wasn't without controversy, but stands as one of the boldest routes. My point is that we don't need more confrontation, be the better man, turn the proverbial cheek, tell your stories without prejudice towards others and the record will have both sides to every debate. If the NC community both old and young could come together - maybe we could actually gain proper access to places like GT, Chimney, TR, Wildcat, Raven, Cow etc... never met a bigger group of self destructive addicts in my life before
rf, Shannon is referring to 'Long Strange Trip' on Wright Wall, which Doc and ML put up. I've always been strangely attracted to that route, probably just because I'm strangely attracted to bat hooks. For some reason he has always had a bug up his butt about that route, but whatever. He's just tweaking me; there's certainly no animosity involved. He's one of my best friends and there's no question in my mind he would have my back in the face of the Chinese army or rabid frothing at the mouth wimp faced NC posers, as I do for him. That said, Stegg, you can see the finger right here, dude. (grin).

I'm just fascinated by someone who can have the self awareness to name themselves Dumass. Re-read my definition of an FA fool.
Mark O'Neal · · Nicholson, GA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,323

Saw a very topical article in R&I about the upcoming NC slab-off. Here's the pertinent portion

R&I slabfest

shannon stegg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Jim, funny you are fascinated by hundreds of bat hook holes. You should come back and go for the second ascent. By now its holes could of turned into one finger solution pockets turning two pitches of blank stone into an incredible free climb. Sorry can not see your hand, but mine is waving at you!

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10
Mark O'Neal wrote:Saw a very topical article in R&I about the upcoming NC slab-off. Here's the pertinent portion
Well, yeah. What's your point? You want to have an adventure or some circle jerk on a 30' choss pile with eight bolts up a 'route'?

Shannon, the wall overhangs (there's a reason why Forrest said the north face of the Glass was just training for Wright Wall). It will take millennia for anything about those holes to change, unless of course it actually got repeated a few times and they wallered out. But I didn't realize Doc and Mark's arms were so short that they had to put 'hundreds of holes' into about 100' of rock (not all of which required holes). Plus, as far as I know (now mentioning with some curiosity), no one has been able to climb there for 20 years.
BirminghamBen · · Birmingham, AL · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,620

This is what I am talking about....
Grown up conversation, even in the face of Fencer's new age hippie drivel....
:)

Mark O'Neal · · Nicholson, GA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,323
Jim Corbett wrote: Well, yeah. What's your point? You want to have an adventure or some circle jerk on a 30' choss pile with eight bolts up a 'route'?
Well that article is pretty tongue and cheek, but maybe one bolt (or pro) in that 30' might be nice.... :)
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
Post a Reply to "Intro to NC"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.