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Lock-off Strength

Original Post
evan h · · Longmont, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 360

A little background: I'm not a "strong" climber. I can do 12 pull-ups on a good day and any routes/problems requiring large lock-offs completely shut me down. Also, my lock-off strength is very asymmetric, i.e. I can pull into a lock-off on a steep wall with my left arm much better than my right (and I'm right handed). Assuming that biceps are the main driver of the move, and also assuming that gym setting tends to bias towards right-hand-first movements, I was surprised to find that I'm much stronger curling with the right arm. So...are biceps not the main muscle involved in this move? Other than doing a lot of lock-offs or pull-ups, does anyone have any sound advice on how to improve strength in this area? Thanks!

Mark Wilson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

rock climbing is way more about core strength than many people believe. biceps are not that important. work on core- planks, knee-ups etc.

Marathon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 275

Just Lock it Off.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

Start bouldering. A lot.

Other than that, asdrubai is right. Your core and your back (lats) are way more important for locking off than your biceps.

drewp · · Vegas · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 1,616

frenchies!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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