Mike Johnson Route
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 43 votes
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Mike Johnson |
Page Views: | 1,502 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Ken Heiser on Aug 21, 2004 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021
Details
For 2022: per Daniel Bryant: they did extend the order, but what I found was that the closed area does not encompass any of the common climbing areas within Elevenmile Canyon.
Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.
Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.
Description
Find this route starting from the righthand end of the ledge that "South Face Direct" starts from.
Clip bolts up the wall on 5.7 and 5.8 climbing to the bulge. Decipher the bulge using trickery and slopers and continue on to the anchor. The bulge is much harder than the rest of the pitch and is only a move or two. This is worth doing if you have stopped an Elevenmile.
Clip bolts up the wall on 5.7 and 5.8 climbing to the bulge. Decipher the bulge using trickery and slopers and continue on to the anchor. The bulge is much harder than the rest of the pitch and is only a move or two. This is worth doing if you have stopped an Elevenmile.
Protection
Six (now 5) bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Eds. Here is an explanation: per Jesse Morehouse: there are now only 5 protection bolts. It looks like there used to be 6 (buttonheads with homemade Leeper-style hangers), but those have either been removed or hammered flat (total eyesore), and the original anchor is higher on the wall than the current top anchor, which probably meant the original 6th protection bolt was about where the newer top anchor is.
Eds. Here is an explanation: per Jesse Morehouse: there are now only 5 protection bolts. It looks like there used to be 6 (buttonheads with homemade Leeper-style hangers), but those have either been removed or hammered flat (total eyesore), and the original anchor is higher on the wall than the current top anchor, which probably meant the original 6th protection bolt was about where the newer top anchor is.
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