Using Alpine Draws for sport and trad.
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As the title says, I occasionally use my alpine draws for sport routes (reduce rope drag on some wandering routes) |
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I´ve been climbing trad for 45 years and sport for 25 and I haven´t even got an alpine draw- am I going to die? |
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Nah, it's all good. I use mine as well, although I tend to wait until the others are gone. |
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You can skip the webbing and clip right into the thumb loop. I think OP and DMM are the only current generation of cams without a thumb loop. |
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It's fine. I would wager a lot of people do this or something similar. I mean when you clip the odd bolt or fixed pin on a trad route you use the same draws, right? |
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Steve Minn wrote:You can skip the webbing and clip right into the thumb loop.It's probably fine for the larger sizes, but BD warns that doing this can reduce the strength of the cam by 2kn. Something to do with the thumb loop wire pinching around the smaller radius of the carabiner vs the webbing. demandware.edgesuite.net/aa… |
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Jim Titt wrote:I´ve been climbing trad for 45 years and sport for 25 and I haven´t even got an alpine draw- am I going to die?The OP is probably talking about slings or runners. Honestly kids these days think everything is sport centric and adjust the lingo accordingly. With their cute little sport runners with the dogbones and bent/wire gates.... |
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Of course clipping metal to mental poses more of a risk, I always look mine over after clipping carabiners to bolts incase sharp edges develop. |
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Eric Engberg wrote: The OP is probably talking about slings or runners. Honestly kids these days think everything is sport centric and adjust the lingo accordingly. With their cute little sport runners with the dogbones and bent/wire gates....The OP is talking about a tripled runner with two biners aka an "alpine draw". If you own a runner and two carabiners you own an alpine draw. Idk how that is "sport-centric" any more than a quick draw is "sport-centric". |
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I'm curious what kind of slings you use then, Jim Titt? You only use quickdraws, and have for 45 years? ;-) |
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I have all alpine draws pretty much because I really only put money towards trad gear, since I do that more it's not a huge problem for me, if your sport climbing almost just as much then idk, worth it too buy some QuickDraws. I also have Frankendraws that I use for sport, random biners and dogbones hanging around |
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It's going to matter a lot more if you fall on the draws. You aren't going to chew up the carabiner if you don't fall on it; it just gently clinks around on the bolt as the rope moves. |