Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: JS, Brent Manning, July 2013
Page Views: 1,149 total · 9/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 16, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Will you stay in control? You'll find the middle section a little licheny (as most new BCC routes nowadays likely will be), but the upper slab will more than make up for it -- think the last part of Northwest Passage, but with more exciting exposure. Might be somewhat reach-dependent, but I've minded grk's admonition to "fight grade creep." (And after top rope rehearsal, it really seemed 10c, but let's hear.)

Start ten or so feet right of the obviously older bolts of Get the Net. Face climb past three bolts to the blocky pillar, then work up either the dihedral formed by the pillar or the more sporty but easy climbing on the face of the pillar to its top. Step across to two more bolts, and diagonal right to horizontal cracks (cam) and up to a third (slightly hidden) bolt. From here, climb more or less straight up past a little apex roof to the left edge of the Northwest Passage/High Dive headwall. Ignore the urge to climb the cool looking but much easier left-facing dihedral to the left, and step right and trust yourself past three more bolts to Metolius rap anchors.

Location Suggest change

Between Get the Net and High Dive.

Protection Suggest change

A small selection of cams from .33” to 1.5”, draws, and maybe a runner or two. Rigged to descend with a single 70 meter rope.

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