Mountain Project Logo

ice tools and axes

Original Post
mike canter · · columbus ohio · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

starting ice climbing, have done easy wi2 in north east. basically have simple goals of alpine ice style up to wi3+ mainly routes like mount baker and others of moderate difficulty.

ice tool suggestions? have used petzl quark, felt as if it would be overkill, was thinking more along lines of black diamond venom. vertical ice really doesn't interest me at all at the moment. anyone have experience using straight shaft tools on lower angle ice? how is the swing and knuckle bashing just poor technique?

Mike Hasse · · New York, NY · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 365

A combination of a BD Venom or similar slightly technical ice axe and one of your Quarks should be perfect for getting you up anything you just described.

Karl Henize · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 643

The venom is probably the most modular hybrid tool on the market and best for routes where the crux is WI3 or lower. However, you need to have a strong grip on any vertical ice sections (no pinkie rest). I wouldn't want to be hanging my full body weight on a venom, while placing a screw on vertical ice.

If you may need to hang off your tools on vertical ice, I would go for something with a pinkie rest.

I personally like the Grivel slider system for lower angle routes with frequent transitions from snow to ice. I use the matrix light (slider sold separately). I have climbed up WI4 and M6 with a quantum tech and a matrix light w/ slider. Knuckle bashing is noticeable/unavoidable on bulges with the matrix light, but OK.

Petzl also has good tools with removable pinkie rests. Transitions are not as quick as with the Grivel system, but the grip is marginally more comfortable.

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436

I'm pleased with the CAMP Alpax special.

Comes in both hammer and axe models.

It's an ice axe with a pinky rest that folds out when needed, and stows in the shaft when not needed.

camp-usa.com/products/ice-a…

camp-usa.com/products/ice-a…

On sale at Mountain Gear: mountaingear.com/webstore/G…

I like these better than the Venoms for the pinky rest and also because the Venoms feel a bit light for my tastes when climbing hard ice. The CAMP tools have a bit more heft in the head, which makes them swing a bit better (at least for me.)

The Grivel Airtech Carbon with the Easy Slider is another option.

grivel.com/upload/products/…

(There's no carbon version for the hammer, so you'd need to go with a regular Airtech Evo hammer, or just use a quark or some other full-technical hammer tool.)

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Something like the Petzl Sum'tec might work for what your thinking of. I used a friends Sum'tec and an Aztarex on a steep, but short WI4+ pillar just for kicks and they actually worked fairly well, the only tough part was holding tightly to the tool. Putting a lot of weight on the pinky rest was pretty painful on the steep ice, but they made a great mountain tool combination.

Medic741 · · Des Moines, IA (WTF) · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

Post up some gear you'd be willing to trade on MP for some ice tools, and see what offers you get. If ya can tools that are also decent at mixed will make it easier to do when you try it and get addicted. This season I traded an old tent for a used pair of reactors that I've been really enjoying.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "ice tools and axes"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started