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Routes in The Prow
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16 Men of Tain, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Born On The Fourth S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crowd Control S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Daddy Didn't Need No Magnum S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Drill for the Thrill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Drilla From Manilla S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Evil Empire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Honeymoon Is Over, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Induced Labor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lord of the Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Natural Born Drilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Snail Trail S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Squidge, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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User's Choice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Tod Anderson |
| Page Views: | 1,311 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Adams on Mar 13, 2006 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure - Endless Wall
Details
The nesting peregrine falcon pair at Lime CC are in full swing & a temporary area closure surrounding the nest is now in effect until 8/1/23 or rescinded earlier. Information is posted at the site. Climbing is not affected at other areas in Lime CC as a result of this temporary area closure, including at Endless Wall in the Jellystone & the north end of the canyon. Specific to the Endless Wall, the closure begins about 75' R of Fruit of the Linen extends about 2000' up the main canyon to a point about 180' north of the overhead powerline.
In 2022: the closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier that season. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the peregrine falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, effective 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible at the Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, climbing routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c we saw peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 year reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each year based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have the specific resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
It is our intent to protect the area surrounding the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 year restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More information regarding the proposal, its rationale, & how to provide your comments is available by contacting the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you for your interest.
Phil Nyland
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
In 2022: the closure ended. During monitoring, a tech saw no falcons/young on the cliffs or nesting area seen earlier that season. An adult flew around the main canyon & was calling. The young were able to fly, & the family was in the area but not nest dependent.
In 2022: from P. Nyland - the peregrine falcons returned in 2022 to nest in Jellystone, Lime CC. Thus, White River NF closed the area depicted in the attached Forest Order, effective 6/9-8/1/22.
2 peregrine falcons nested here in 2020 during a similar closure. In 2021, falcons did not nest in this area & a closure ended.
2 were attending a nest. During my last monitoring, both birds were highly agitated until I backed away from the cliff edge. The nest was in a location visible from access & climbing routes at the Endless Wall & Magic Forest. In 2020, climbing was possible at the Endless Wall during the nest & nest-departure phases, but that year the nest location made the pair & their young reactive & vulnerable to humans.
The closed area includes the cliff faces, cliff tops, climbing routes, & access routes to Magic Forest & Endless Wall. The cliff tops were in the closure, b/c we saw peregrines perched there. Closure info is posted at the start of the access from FR 400. Closure ended Aug. 1.
Older: as of 6/20/21, after speaking with P. Nyland, NF Biologist, the study to date showed no evidence of nesting. As a result, the NF anticipated no raptor nesting closures. If evidence of raptor nesting is found, the situation could change, but for now Lime CC & the nearby areas are open.
The White River NF proposes to establish a 5 year reg., a “Special Order,” restricting human occupancy surrounding a peregrine falcon nest site during the nesting period in Lime CC, Eagle County, Aspen-Sopris Ranger District, potentially from May 15 to July 31 each year based on nesting.
The proposed Special Order extends a short-term restriction from 6/1-8/1/20 after monitoring showed an active nest for the fourth year from 2016-20, & within the past two years in close proximity to popular climbing routes. The cliffs of Lime CC are unique & have the specific resources needed for local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. During this life stage, adults & young peregrine falcons can be disturbed by humans.
It is our intent to protect the area surrounding the nest site using science-based peregrine falcon information & monitoring. As possible, the restriction may allow for climbing & other human presence where this does not interfere with local peregrine falcons to nest, lay eggs, & rear young. As possible, the area to be restricted would immediately surrounding the nest site & adjusted in location if the birds shift their nest site during the 5 year restriction period. The proposed Special Order would be lifted on or before Aug. 1, depending on the status of the nest & the peregrine falcons present, & the Special Order would remain in effect until rescinded or until 8/1/25, whichever event occurs first.
How to comment:
You may comment on this proposal by replying to P. Nyland, Wildlife Biologist at 970-404-3156, philip.nyland@usda.gov or J. Schuller, Deputy District Ranger at 970-404-3163, Jennifer.schuller@usda.gov. Please provide comments by 5/24/21.
More information regarding the proposal, its rationale, & how to provide your comments is available by contacting the FS.
fs.usda.gov/project/?projec…
Thank you for your interest.
Phil Nyland
FS Wildlife Biologist
White River NF,
Aspen-Sopris District
p: 970-404-3156
philip.nyland@usda.gov
POB 309, 620 Main St.
Carbondale, CO 81623 fs.fed.us
Description
Start under the big roof. The first couple bolts are on vertical rock - you'll find the crux here. The route underclings, liebacks, and stems to the anchors. The rock quality deteriorates as the route goes vertical, but the climbing is easy and well protected. Wear a helmet and have fun!
See the![]()
for location.
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