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Routes in West Wall
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Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anesthesia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arctic Breeze S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Arrowroot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bombs Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crazy Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jester, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Last Laugh, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magnum Force T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Main Vein T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Slash, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vanishing Point T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 485 ft (147 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Gene Drake, Jim Orey, 1972. FAA: B. Todd & Rick Sumner & John Taylor 1975 |
| Page Views: | 8,335 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Oct 19, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
This route ascends the huge dihedral/arch on the far right side of the West Face below some very distinctive big roofs looming above. Climb dikes into a smooth chimney. Grovel your way up through the Yosemite like smooth chimney, fist cracks and awkward widths. There is a finger sized crack in there somewhere, so make sure you have a few pieces of gear for that. A two bolt belay awaits at the top of the first pitch. The second pitch climbs a wide fist/offwidth to a roof where you hand-traverse out of the corner to the left along the overhanging roof and around the corner.
It is possible to traverse the roofs to the right (5.10c wide) and finish via Third Stone From the Sun (5.10d+ offwidth) or another roof/bulging corner (5.11+) to the right of that.
It is possible to traverse the roofs to the right (5.10c wide) and finish via Third Stone From the Sun (5.10d+ offwidth) or another roof/bulging corner (5.11+) to the right of that.
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