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TR: Ya Pues

Original Post
Chris Clarke · · Davis, WV · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 130

Yesterday, Gregg Beisly, Roberto Rauch and I made a new route on the south face of Pico Milluni (18,000') in a longish day from La Paz. We called it Ya Pues (M5, AI3) which basically means "come on already."

We took the most obvious line which is marked with red arrows.

It's 600 meters up the face and then a kilometer or so along the ridge to the summit. We were able to climb the first 300 meters without rope which helped a lot in getting to the top before dark.

On the lower section.

Easy but falling would be bad.

Roberto at the first belay.

Gregg on the crux mixed section.

We found mostly good firm snow but enough bottomless sugar snow to keep it real.

There were some fun mixed gully pitches:

Gregg

Exiting onto the upper face.

Gregg

More mixed.

Some exposure.

It was cold in the shade but no rocks fell on us:

Better cold than constant rockfall.

Finally we made it to the ridge:

Gregg and Roberto

Gregg is psyched for a little sun:

Sun at last.

The ridge is like the Upper Exum, except it is 4,000' higher and climbed only a few times, at most, in this direction:

Ridge.

Obligatory summit photo:

Roberto and me.

Gregg on the summit:

Summit Gregg.

Roberto in the late afternoon light:

Roberto in the light.

So we still had to get down. It was only three rappels and some interesting scrambling and maybe 3 miles walking to the refugio. From there, we had to get the car which was maybe five miles away on the other side of the mountain. Gregg went for it while Roberto drank coke and I had a few beers at Casa Blanca. Good times and home well before midnight.

Davi Rivas · · Ventura, CA · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,335

Looks like a cool mixed route Chris. Thanks for the TR.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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