Funky Technique - Cross Hooking
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Came across this technique on the interwebs and thought I'd post it up here. I haven't tried this yet but in my minds eye it seems like it could work quite well in certain situations. This may be old news but i've never seen it before. Check it and lemme know what you think. |
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I'm not trying to be an ass... there's certainly a lot of funky, stupid human tricks available to complete a move here or there. |
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Brent Apgar wrote:I'm not trying to be an ass... there's certainly a lot of funky, stupid human tricks available to complete a move here or there. Honestly if you want to gather together a catalog of super specialized moves for that one particular time you need it... go bouldering inside. You'll be forced into all sorts of joint dislocating funkyness... or you'll just get so damned strong that you won't need any sort of trick technique.I'm not looking for ear jams or the like, but useful techniques that may not be so widely known (i.e. Leavittation)... or not, whatever. I don't think the above technique is a stupid human trick however. It looks like it could have actual utility in some situations. It uses the weight of the outside leg to provide leverage, allowing additional reach without additional power output (in theory anyway - I will be trying it out tomorrow to see what I think). I dunno maybe there are not enough 'unusual' techniques out there to warrant a discussion. |
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on fistful of walnuts(??) in j tree i heard some guy using a head jam technique to send the problem |
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Agreed with above. I wouldn't call these types of things technique so much as specific beta for a problem. If you get stuck on a specific route/problem, you're better off asking a local about the beta for that move rather than memorizing a list of obscure moves from people trolling around online. |
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Brendan Blanchard wrote:Agreed with above. I wouldn't call these types of things technique so much as specific beta for a problem. If you get stuck on a specific route/problem, you're better off asking a local about the beta for that move rather than memorizing a list of obscure moves from people trolling around online.The move described is just a variation of a common technique generally known as a twist-lock. Look at this page from the classic Performance Rock Climbing by Goddard and Neumann for the basic example. It's a useful move. It extends the shoulder of the reaching arm and the downward force of the hanging leg helps to roll the body over making the reach easier. In this situation, one is using a heel-hook with the outside of the foot against the wall just as one would use the outside edge of the rock boot in a more generic situation. The photo description on the previously linked page from PRC explains the general idea: wrote:Twisting lengthens reach and requires less strength. Note how using the left foot's outside edge allows the whole body to roll to the side. |
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Jimminy christmas this is just a freaking backstep. Has the whole world gone crazy?! So he's using his heal instead of his forefoot, BFD. |
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RyanJ wrote: The move described is just a variation of a common technique generally known as a twist-lock. Look at this page from the classic Performance Rock Climbing by Goddard and Neumann for the basic example. It's a useful move. It extends the shoulder of the reaching arm and the downward force of the hanging leg helps to roll the body over making the reach easier. In this situation, one is using a heel-hook with the outside of the foot against the wall just as one would use the outside edge of the rock boot in a more generic situation. The photo description on the previously linked page from PRC explains the general idea:I didn't quote the entire article but if you click through he does state it is a variation of the twist lock. I just never thought to switch the heel hook to the other foot when clearing a roof like that. Like I said, may be old news to some... Monomaniac wrote: Jimminy christmas this is just a freaking backstep. Has the whole world gone crazy?! So he's using his heal instead of his forefoot, BFD....and apparently make others very angry. |
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Joshua1979 wrote: ...and apparently make others very angry.It's just that biomechanics dictates that there are only so many ways that the human body can move and so there are really only a few different general climbing techniques. I can see Mono's point, it get's a little old when people want to reinvent the wheel every few months... it's sort of like some of the training discussions. (Had to throw that in, figured that Mono would get a smirk out of it given you end up in on a lot of those posts.) That's also why I said that I wasn't trying to be a smartass. If you have a decent bouldering area in the local gym you can log a lot of time doing awkward moves and you'll figure out when you need to maybe start a move w/ a heel and then switch it to a toe or when cross body foot positions give you better leverage....etc. cheers all... and have a happy holiday season. BA |
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Brent Apgar wrote: It's just that biomechanics dictates that there are only so many ways that the human body can move and so there are really only a few different general climbing techniques. I can see Mono's point, it get's a little old when people want to reinvent the wheel every few months... it's sort of like some of the training discussions. (Had to throw that in, figured that Mono would get a smirk out of it given you end up in on a lot of those posts.) That's also why I said that I wasn't trying to be a smartass. If you have a decent bouldering area in the local gym you can log a lot of time doing awkward moves and you'll figure out when you need to maybe start a move w/ a heel and then switch it to a toe or when cross body foot positions give you better leverage....etc. cheers all... and have a happy holiday season. BAI don't see how this is trying to reinvent the wheel. As the article stated it is a variation of the twist lock. A ring lock is a variation of a finger lock that has a specialized use...Is that trying to reinvent the wheel too? I posted this simply because I have not seen it done this way. This is a training discussion forum if I'm not mistaken. Happy holidays to you as well. |
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I played around with this a bit last night and here are my thoughts for those that care. In my limited experimentation it only really seemed beneficial when pulling a roof onto a vertical or past vertical wall or on really steep terrain as there needs to be space for your body to roll. More often then not on steep terrain it was better to outside edge rather than heel hook and then it just becomes the familiar twist lock. However, when pulling a lip I did find that switching the heel hook to the inside leg and stretching the outside leg away from the body (think 90 degree angle) did allow for body to roll and the reaching arm to gain more distance with relative ease. |
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Twisting your body so you can reach higher is an actual technique with an actual name and it's own specialized variations? I thought it was just common sense. |
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Taylor Ogden wrote:Twisting your body so you can reach higher is an actual technique with an actual nameYes, it is commonly referred to as a twist lock. Taylor Ogden wrote:I thought it was just common sense.Based on my observations twisting is not common sense for a lot of climbers. I also observe that common sense is not so common. For instance common sense would say read through a thread prior to commenting but I can tell from your response that you didn't as you are missing the point. It's not the twisting that makes the move unique...It's the extension of the outside leg, providing a counter weight, thereby allowing one to turn without much power output. That's what makes it cool IMO but YMMV. |
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sawyer wylie wrote:I believe Dave Graham does this near the end of the bouldering film REACH on a V14 in Colorado.Just checked out the trailer...Cinematography looks pretty sick. Thanks for the heads up. |
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Joshua1979 wrote: Yes, it is commonly referred to as a twist lock. Based on my observations twisting is not common sense for a lot of climbers. I also observe that common sense is not so common. For instance common sense would say read through a thread prior to commenting but I can tell from your response that you didn't as you are missing the point. It's not the twisting that makes the move unique...It's the extension of the outside leg, providing a counter weight, thereby allowing one to turn without much power output. That's what makes it cool IMO but YMMV.I actually did read the thread, thanks :) I suppose my confusion comes from the fact that it's a technique I've done for years and had no clue it had a name and no one ever "taught" it to me. |
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Taylor Ogden wrote: I actually did read the thread, thanks :) I suppose my confusion comes from the fact that it's a technique I've done for years and had no clue it had a name and no one ever "taught" it to me.Rock Climbing Moves Glossary |
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God damn - some of you guys are just a bunch of assholes . . . |
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I was thinking the exact same thing, Leroy. Lots of frustration built up and ready to spew on anybody available I guess. Some of you need to take a nice walk, breath in some fresh air and chill and take back ownership of your internal dialog. |
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Leroy wrote:God damn - some of you guys are just a bunch of assholes . . .You resurrected a 3 year old thread to make this your first post in over two years? What took you so long? |
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Guess he is catching up on a couple years of reading, ha. Easy not to notice the dates if you do a search and start reading. The time disconnect is somewhat irrelevant to the point he was making though. Sometimes you see too much of it in one day and you have to say "WTF, people?" |