Mt. Capitol conditions

Hi there everybody. I'm trying to find out if anyone has been on the summit of Mt. Capitol in the last week and can give me a report on conditions? My buddy and I are traveling from NY and were initially planning on the Grand Teton. However after speaking to a ranger at the station who advised us against it we are looking for an alternative. We cannot reschedule our trip due to time and money and would really like to get in a good climb. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

when is your trip? What kind of climb are you looking at doing (there are a lot of routes up the Grand and Capitol)?

Our trip is this week. We are actually flying into Salt Lake City and picking up a rental on the 5th. From there we are driving directly to Capitol that night and hiking up to the camp area the morning of the 6th. Camping over night and getting an early start up for the summit.

We were going to take the OS up the Grand, but as mentioned it sounds av prone and there are melting conditions. I'm looking for suggestions on routes for Capitol. We are coming out prepped for mixed ice or rock climbing, with crampon, axes, rope, pro, and rock shoes.

If you guys are coming out for mixed ice and rock you will be fine on the OS on the Grand. I was up there last weekend. It is avy prone but no more so than any other spring snow destination. Get an early, early start. Hit the snow when it is firm and get off it when the snow is still firm. Or be prepared to bivy to wait for things to settle down again.

Snow levels is well below the meadows but is melting fast. It was a snow climb to upper saddle but pretty straight forward. The OS has consolidated powder snow in there(fresh?) it maybe melted by now. Also afternoon storms are another reason to be headed down before noon or so.

If you want more info send me an email. Good luck!

-greg

Hey there everyone. Hoping to get any last minute info on conditions on the Teton, Capitol, and Garnett. Those are out three likeliest climbs and we are flying out there tomorrow. So if anyone has been up in the last day or so please let us know. Trying to make the best of our time though the weather and conditions are not ideal.

Sorry I dont have any recent beta, but just go for one of 'em. Flip a coin. All of these options are a crap shoot as far as getting the perfect conditions in such a short time frame this time of year. Embrace the uncertainly; most people wound't even put themselves out there and try, so in that sense you've already sent.

All three of these options are truly beautiful and are big prizes. Have fun and don't worry too much about the summit!