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> Whitney Portal Buttress
Ghostrider
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 54 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Mike Strassman, Raleigh Collins, Mark Husbands, Charles Byrne, and Jackie Carroll |
Page Views: | 19,253 total · 91/month |
Shared By: | ttriche on Dec 27, 2006 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Great route -- well-protected face cruxes and some wild, varied trad climbing on pitches 1-3, transitioning abruptly to sport-bolted knob pulling for the next 5 pitches. You can leave your packs in the bowl atop P4 if you plan to rap the route, since you will pass by here on the way down and won't need the gear after this point.
P1: tunnel through a bizarre chimney to a two-bolt belay, 5.9.
P2: tightly bolted face climbing (5.10c) to a wide crack (5.10a).
P3: wild, airy underclings protected with multiple big cams (5.10a) culminating in a small bolt-protected roof (5.10a). This pitch is the reason you should ignore the Satoris start variation!
P4: face climb past 4 bolts to a large bowl-shaped ledge (5.8).
P5-P8: bolted knob pulling for 4 solid pitches of carefree sport climbing (5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a or 5.10c variation to the right).
Descent: rap the route (see topo for most efficient sequence).
Variations:
Satoris (5.8) joins this route at P4 but you miss the fun of P3, which is one of the highlights of the route. Bring wide gear.
Wonderwall P1 was used for the FA, giving one pitch of runout 5.9 to a short linkup at 5.7 below the 5.10c bolted low crux. This avoids the fun tunnel-through on P1.
Rumor has it that MS and an itinerant grad student are planning to bolt a finish to all this...
P1: tunnel through a bizarre chimney to a two-bolt belay, 5.9.
P2: tightly bolted face climbing (5.10c) to a wide crack (5.10a).
P3: wild, airy underclings protected with multiple big cams (5.10a) culminating in a small bolt-protected roof (5.10a). This pitch is the reason you should ignore the Satoris start variation!
P4: face climb past 4 bolts to a large bowl-shaped ledge (5.8).
P5-P8: bolted knob pulling for 4 solid pitches of carefree sport climbing (5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a or 5.10c variation to the right).
Descent: rap the route (see topo for most efficient sequence).
Variations:
Satoris (5.8) joins this route at P4 but you miss the fun of P3, which is one of the highlights of the route. Bring wide gear.
Wonderwall P1 was used for the FA, giving one pitch of runout 5.9 to a short linkup at 5.7 below the 5.10c bolted low crux. This avoids the fun tunnel-through on P1.
Rumor has it that MS and an itinerant grad student are planning to bolt a finish to all this...
Location
A full topo with more beta can be found at rangeoflight.com/Portal.htm (Mike Strassman's site).
Look for a cairned turnoff from the hiker's trail beneath the buttress, and head up to the start under Satoris.
Look for a cairned turnoff from the hiker's trail beneath the buttress, and head up to the start under Satoris.
23 Comments