Ring finger injury

I maybe went to hard a few months ago on a fingerboard training session. Was working a 2 finger pocket, and as I got tired I slipped off and heard a small pop.

There wasnt a lot of pain initially, just about the same condition it's still in. No real swelling at the time of injury.

The current condition of it is, I can climb with it, it hates pockets, but that might be as mental as physical, and its main problem is still open hand gripping. If I open hand grip the table I'm typing this on right now with that finger, it hurts in the middle knuckle more than anything, but I feel mild to moderate pain in the middle knuckle that I wouldn't describe being on either of the sides. I would say that the middle knuckle feels softer, but it's also my off hand.

Anyone have any idea what I did and what I can do myself to get it better still? Since then I've return to light fingerboarding, and am climbing again. I wanna be able to grab a pocket again, the normal way!

After reading and trying all that crap I have determined its better to see a hand orthopedist if possible. spekaing with people who have tried to heal using these methods. most have chronic pain that flairs up from time to time and it goes on for years. Most of the advice they give is they wish they stopped climbing and let it heal completely. it sucks i am out rightr noe but having let elbow and other injuries heal completely after complete breaks from climbing I feel that this is the way to go. just my opinion. I know it sucks.

I'll do whatever I gotta I guess... how long have you been out so far?

Adam,

You almost certainly tore your A2 a bit. I'm nearly recovered from the exact injury you described.

I was able to climb on it lightly within 1 week. I personally subscribe to the school of thought that it's ok, even beneficial, to lightly exercise while injured as long as it doesn't hurt, even while it hurts just a little. Light use can facilitate healing and ensures that you'll come back to 100%.

I had the same problem with pockets and small crimps. Just avoid them for awhile, no need to completely stop climbing.

What really gave me good results was giving the affected area a deep tissue massage. Run your thumb firmly from the base of the finger towards the fingertip for about 5 mins at a time. This promotes blood flow to the area and breaks up scar tissue.

I'm no doctor, but this worked for me.

I could have somehting worse. I have been out two months at it still hurts when gripping pretty much anything. I didnt hear a pop or feel a pop it just sort of started hurting gradualy over a two session period. I got to the actualy han orthopedist tomorrow.

Following the idea that it's the A2 I started taping, and it helped a lot. It's feeling better every day so far. Still dont want pockets in my life, but I'm sure it'll get there. Thank you all for the help so far.

Following the idea that it's the A2 I started taping, and it helped a lot. It's feeling better every day so far. Still dont want pockets in my life, but I'm sure it'll get there. Thank you all for the help so far.