Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Jerry Dodrill
Page Views: 2,228 total · 12/month
Shared By: Eric Berghorn on Jun 8, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Sustained vertical face climbing leads past 7 bolts up and left to an exciting finish. Route is somewhat gritty in places but also has some great features, including some interesting horizontal pockets about halfway up.

I’ve spent a fair amount of time over 10 years re-visiting this route to check the condition of the bolts and to clean the annual accumulation of loose crumbly rock around the route. The Rock quality here is generally less than some of the more popular climbs 100 ft. to the left on the main face. As the route has seasoned through fire and flames and many winters the holds feel sharper and the climbing is as bold and technical as ever. It’s not a friendly route for the grade, and feels rather desperate and so it has it’s haters. Thats fine. I will continue to defend this climb against the haters and appreciate the efforts by many commenting here who have truly taken on the challenges of this somewhat devious climb. Eric Berghorn 12/25/20.

Location Suggest change

3rd class scramble up from the base trail to a hidden ledge and belay from the tree 20' feet right of the obvious "Bear Crack" route.

Protection Suggest change

7 bolts to lower off anchor. Can be top-roped by rapping in from chains above at the very top of the cliff.

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