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trainingbeta.com

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chopsticktown Moore · · Blandon, PA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 10

Has anyone had success with the training programs on this site? Are they legit? I would like to know if its worth it to drop the money on the two programs.

trainingbeta.com/

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

No it is not worth money to buy into any climbing "training program." Want a training program? Just go out and climb hard stuff. You will get better. That's the "program" I used to climb 5.12+, and nine grade V and VI bigwalls.

If you really want something more specific, pick up the Self Coached Climber. It's like $20 and probably the best book out there on the topic.

This reminds me of my triathlon training. I told someone in a triathlon training group that I plan to do an Ironman. He asked what training group I am with and I said none. He looked at me like I am insane. It's not rocket science. If I want to be good at swimming, running and biking then I should probably swim, run and bike. I dont need to pay someone to tell me that.

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60

I don't know anything about trainingbeta.com. It could be awesome, it could be a waste. If you do spend money there, please post again with your thoughts on the product that they provide.

However, I will say that I disagree strongly with 20g's comments. "Just climbing" can be fun, but it is not the most efficient way to get better. Also, although the Self Coached Climber has some good info, the Anderson bros "the rock climbers training manual" is, IMHO, the best book on training for climbing right now. McCloud's book "9 out of 10 climbers make these mistakes" is also great, although not specifically about training.

Spend some time perusing the training forum here. Do a search and look at a few of the blogs on training for climbing. There is a lot of good info out there.

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

Anderson guys program sounds terrible ad far asfun goes but to each their own

Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25
20 kN wrote:No it is not worth money to buy into any climbing "training program." Want a training program? Just go out and climb hard stuff. You will get better. That's the "program" I used to climb 5.12+, and nine grade V and VI bigwalls. If you really want something more specific, pick up the Self Coached Climber. It's like $20 and probably the best book out there on the topic. This reminds me of my triathlon training. I told someone in a triathlon training group that I plan to do an Ironman. He asked what training group I am with and I said none. He looked at me like I am insane. It's not rocket science. If I want to be good at swimming, running and biking then I should probably swim, run and bike. I dont need to pay someone to tell me that.
You hear this a lot with climbing but I've always wondered how true it is. In every other sport I've been involved in, the best way to get better was *not* to just play said sport. That's not to say you can't get better that way, it's just not the most efficient (by a long shot, in most cases).

Basketball teams do more than just play pick up basketball to get better. Runners do more than just "go out and run fast".

I don't see why climbing would be any different.

That said, personally I like just climbing, rather than suffering on a hang board, so I just climb a bunch and if I get better as a by product that's cool too.

To each their own.
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
5.samadhi wrote:Anderson guys program sounds terrible ad far asfun goes but to each their own
And we all know that simply having fun RIGHT NOW is the key to a satisfying life and the secret to hard climbing.
Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
20 kN wrote:No it is not worth money to buy into any climbing "training program." Want a training program? Just go out and climb hard stuff. You will get better. That's the "program" I used to climb 5.12+, and nine grade V and VI bigwalls. If you really want something more specific, pick up the Self Coached Climber. It's like $20 and probably the best book out there on the topic. This reminds me of my triathlon training. I told someone in a triathlon training group that I plan to do an Ironman. He asked what training group I am with and I said none. He looked at me like I am insane. It's not rocket science. If I want to be good at swimming, running and biking then I should probably swim, run and bike. I dont need to pay someone to tell me that.
Anyone can climb 5.12. Anyone can get up trade routes on big walls in perfect weather with a world class SAR team on the ground below you. But if you have aspirations to be better than average, you need to train.

The Self Coached Climber recommendation is a good one though. Great book for any level of climber. There are also a few MP users that have written excellent programs.
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

You might be dead tomorrow. I prefer to have fun with my hobbies. to each their own.

Mark E Dixon wrote: And we all know that simply having fun RIGHT NOW is the key to a satisfying life and the secret to hard climbing.
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
5.samadhi wrote:You might be dead tomorrow.
I can't believe you're threatening me!
But you're going to have to wait in line behind Matt and Ellenor.
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Mark E Dixon wrote: I can't believe you're threatening me! But you're going to have to wait in line behind Matt and Ellenor.
Lol mark I have been on a real morbid kick since getting back into BASE. nothing like staring down at 1000 feet of steel to make you wake up and realize life is short :)
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
5.samadhi wrote: nothing like staring down at 1000 feet of steel to make you wake up and realize life is short :)
I'll bet.

You need a bosu to jack those stabilizers before it's too late
Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25
Mark E Dixon wrote: I'll bet. You need a bosu to jack those stabilizers before it's too late
Swiss ball stacked on top of bosu for full value.
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

just ordered a pink bosu and some leggings might as well while I was on amazon. Im so glad I have this forum to help me you guys rock.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
5.samadhi wrote:just ordered a pink bosu and some leggings might as well while I was on amazon. Im so glad I have this forum to help me you guys rock.
I hope you didn't use paypal gift! Cause you're totally screwed if you did.
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Mark E Dixon wrote: I hope you didn't use paypal gift! Cause you're totally screwed if you did.
I did use gift option. How else would I avoid the 2.35$ in fees???

As long as Amazon.com doesnt go on a BASE-drug-alcohol bender I think we're fine!
chopsticktown Moore · · Blandon, PA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 10

I originally posted this just to ask the question if anyone had success with it. I am looking to push the next level of climbing for me,push myself beyond anything I've ever done and try to be better than just average.

What really drew me to it all was that everything was planned out and scheduled for you. I probably just need more motivation to make a training program work for me and stick to it.

Thanks for all of the replies. I won't be wasting the money on either of them!

Kelly P · · The Bubble, CO · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 10

Here is the thing, if you really want to be SERIOUS about climbing then yes you need to train. If you want to simply have fun and enjoy the outdoors then you don't. Neither is better than the other, it is simply personal preference. Will you get better by climbing more, of course. However if you really want to push your absolute personal limit and are ok with the distinct amount of suffering that comes with it, then train. Maybe it is a byproduct of living in Boulder but damn near every climber I know trains.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Ryan Williams wrote: A Anyone can get up trade routes on big walls in perfect weather with a world class SAR team on the ground below you.
Tell that to the 50-75% of wall first timers that go up the Nose and dont top out. I am sure they could have done it, they just dident feel like it. Either way, I would look into the Self Coached Climber before paying many times more money for other programs. I found the book to be really useful and it has far more training exercises in there than most climbers are willing to utilize.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
chopsticktown wrote:I originally posted this just to ask the question if anyone had success with it. I am looking to push the next level of climbing for me,push myself beyond anything I've ever done and try to be better than just average. What really drew me to it all was that everything was planned out and scheduled for you. I probably just need more motivation to make a training program work for me and stick to it. Thanks for all of the replies. I won't be wasting the money on either of them!
Since I hijacked your thread, I feel obligated to try to add something of value.

I have worked with Kris Peters, he's a good trainer. I'm sure his program would be useful if you need more PE. Kris Hampton is from RRG and I'll bet he knows how to train for endurance. If you need to improve in either of these areas and follow their program, I'm pretty sure you will see improvements.

However, there is no reason you can't figure out a program on your own. The Self Coached Climber is good, although I believe the Rock Climbers Training Manual is much better. Studying ether will give you the info you need to get started.

On the other hand, if you don't want to deal with it and you just want someone to give you a program to follow, I'll bet these are both worthwhile. There's a sample training day from the PE plan posted on Neeley's site now.

The podcasts are fun too, although I'm not sure I've learned any training secrets from them yet.
Tyler Quesnel · · Eliot · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 45

I can't speak for trainingbeta.com but I can speak a bit to training in general.

I've read a few climbing training books and they all have some value. However I would recommend mostly "The Self Coached Climber". I saw almost immediately improvement in my climbing from this book. The book gave a lot of information to understand the different components of climbing that you can train and specific activities/exercises to help you to train them. It gives you a template to follow to get started but sets you up to create your own training plan based on your own needs. I actually leave the book in my gym bag as a reference to use often.

My personal feeling is that knowledge is the best way to improve in the long run. Cookie cutter training programs will work to an extent, but fail to address your specific strength and weaknesses. And unless you have a natural instinct for training, I would not recommend non-purposeful climbing to improve. Different skills and abilities require climbing at different levels and doing different types of activities. Climbing is a highly specific skill sport, so cilmbing activities will always be your best bet, but knowing which ones to do, when to do them and how to do them best is important. To me this does not take away any fun from climbing, but adds to it.

Most importantly, remember to warm up, cool down, stretch and rest. An intensive training program requires rest. The training itself will make you weaker, the rest afterwards is what allows your body to come back stronger.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
20 kN wrote: Tell that to the 50-75% of wall first timers that go up the Nose and dont top out. I am sure they could have done it, they just dident feel like it. Either way, I would look into the Self Coached Climber before paying many times more money for other programs. I found the book to be really useful and it has far more training exercises in there than most climbers are willing to utilize.
You took that out of context. The "average" climber bails on their first wall. Like I said, if you want to be better than average, you need to train. I'm willing to bet that you either bailed on your first wall, or that you invested a lot of time in training and educating yourself before your first attempt and then topped out. Probably the latter, seeing as you took a year off to do nothing but climb.

My point is/was that your comments about just climbing hard to get stronger are bogus.

If I said "you don't need to train for the Nose, just climb a lot and then go and do it" you would call bullshit. So give your self some credit because I'm sure you trained for the walls. And admit that you DO value the benefit of training.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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