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No is a Four Letter Word (aka Ms. Alleneus)
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2 from 13
votes
Routes in The Crack House
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Bold Yellow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gargoyle Gardens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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High Desert T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jug-A-Lug S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mountain Mahogany T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No is a Four Letter Word (aka Ms. Alleneus) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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No Is Hard To Say T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snafu T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stub-a-Chub S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Rick Thompson, Jim Ghiselli, and Kevin Vowles: June, 1999 |
| Page Views: | 1,143 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Perin Blanchard on Sep 26, 2010 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP
Details
(1) The BLM has amended the Cassia Resource Management Plan (RMP) to permanently close the 400 acres of land it manages in the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area to staging, traditional rock climbing, sport climbing and bouldering, as well as overnight camping and development of new trails. Here is a link to a map that shows the BLM land in yellow. parksandrecreation.idaho.go…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
The adjacent Castle Rocks State Park and the National Forest Service land to the north remains OPEN TO CLIMBING,
as does the nearby City of Rocks National Reserve.
(2) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Arrest and/or hefty fines are likely if caught rock climbing with ropes and gear in the BLM land.
Please respect this closure to ensure access to the open climbing at Castle Rocks is not threatened.
The "Final Supplementary Rules for the Castle Rocks Land Use Plan Amendment Area, Idaho" is located in the Federal Registry. This document gives the details on the closure but doesn't provide a map. You can check it out here: federalregister.gov/documen…
Description
A fun jaunt up very featured granite, with good protection through all but the first fifteen feet or so.
Start on a flat-ish spot below the large boulder on the slope at the base of the wall, and climb up through some hard-or-impossible-to-protect terrain. Eventually you'll reach a spot where a hand-size cam will fit (eg., #2 C4). From here go straight up through to a crack and from there to a small roof.
Head up the crack on the right side of the roof to a small overhang between two blocks, the left-most of which looks rounded and vaguely puffy. Surmount the steepness and head up the crack to the chain anchors.
Start on a flat-ish spot below the large boulder on the slope at the base of the wall, and climb up through some hard-or-impossible-to-protect terrain. Eventually you'll reach a spot where a hand-size cam will fit (eg., #2 C4). From here go straight up through to a crack and from there to a small roof.
Head up the crack on the right side of the roof to a small overhang between two blocks, the left-most of which looks rounded and vaguely puffy. Surmount the steepness and head up the crack to the chain anchors.
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