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Pulled Pork at Smuggs

Original Post
Rob DeBruyn · · Burlington, VT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 55

I posted this question in the comments section for the page, but decided it would be much more likely to get noticed here.

I pulled a hold off of this problem the other day. It was one of the flakes on the arete after the traverse across the crimp rail. I don't think it will make it any harder, as there are other options for hands right next to it. On a similar note however...

Is there the possibility that something has broken off of this problem higher up? I ask because I know there is a V6 (Growler maybe?) that starts sitting on the arete and tops out the same as Pulled Pork. This would mean that the low moves before reaching the arete would give Pulled Pork its V7 grade, but I'm finding those moves significantly easier than the upper moves shared by the V6. Anyone been on this lately that can report? It's also possible that I'm just missing something or doing it wrong...

eddysamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,127

If you didn't break where the heel goes its probably not going to affect the problem. It might have a real impact on the dyno version of the problem (the Kosher Option is the name I think?) though.

I think the grade comes from the amount of moves you have to do to get into the end. I'm a Notch regular and I've never done the V6 variation, nor have I ever seen anyone do it or attempt it. I don't think its often climbed and as such its grade is probably wrong.

Also many of the notch climbers are calling Pulled Pork a V8 these days after a key foot broke for the lower part of the problem.

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

I haven't climbed this rig for years, but I don't remember the top being that hard. Certainly not harder than the lower section. My sequence involved two crimps with a crossover to reach the higher one, then mantling. I honestly can't remember if I crossed with the left of right.

You're welcome for the great help I have provided. You. Are. Welcome.

eddysamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,127
Lanky wrote:I haven't climbed this rig for years, but I don't remember the top being that hard. Certainly not harder than the lower section. My sequence involved two crimps with a crossover to reach the higher one, then mantling. I honestly can't remember if I crossed with the left of right. You're welcome for the great help I have provided. You. Are. Welcome.
I want to see who these people are that think the top of this problem is easy, its always been the hardest part for me and I am a decent crimper. I fly through the bottom with complete ease, but can get spit off on any of the last 3 moves.
Rob DeBruyn · · Burlington, VT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 55

Eddy, does this problem top out on the right or left side of the arete?

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255
eddysamson wrote: I want to see who these people are that think the top of this problem is easy, its always been the hardest part for me and I am a decent crimper. I fly through the bottom with complete ease, but can get spit off on any of the last 3 moves.
Could easily just have been a lucky day. In fact, it pretty much has to have been. I think I flashed two of the three hardest things I've ever flashed that day.

Rob, I think I topped out left of the arete, which means my sequence was probably something like: get a left hand crimp up top, cross through to another crimp with the right hand, get a left heel and rock over. But I could be completely wrong.
eddysamson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,127
Rob DeBruyn wrote:Eddy, does this problem top out on the right or left side of the arete?
Left side towards Boomerang (which is really back towards the start of Pulled Pork). Sequence goes: hand/heel match in the arrete(where he said he broke the flake) -> left hand back to crimp rail you traversed on -> right hand up to tiny invisible crimp on top of arrete -> left hand to tiny invisible crimp on left side of arrete -> cross over to a hold about 1-1.5 feet above your left hand with your right hand -> finish to the left with a heel up on top Boomerang.
Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255
eddysamson wrote: Left side towards Boomerang (which is really back towards the start of Pulled Pork). Sequence goes: hand/heel match in the arrete(where he said he broke the flake) -> left hand back to crimp rail you traversed on -> right hand up to tiny invisible crimp on top of arrete -> left hand to tiny invisible crimp on left side of arrete -> cross over to a hold about 1-1.5 feet above your left hand with your right hand -> finish to the left with a heel up on top Boomerang.
I definitely didn't reach back to the crimp rail. I think there's a more optimal sequence possible I just haven't been back recently enough to recall it.
Rob DeBruyn · · Burlington, VT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 55

Thanks for the information guys, that was really helpful.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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