7.5mm twin rope for simuling

My friend and I are planning on climbing a bunch of High Sierra routes this summer, we are planning on simulclimbing alot of 5.8 and below and I was wondering about simuling with a 7.5mm twin rope. I was thinking we could have the leader tie in with both ends and follower tie in with a butterfly knot or figure 8 in the middle. Will this work? We usually just simul with 30m 9.8mm rope but were thinking of doing this so we still have the opption of 30m rappels.

Twins aren't technically rated for lead climbing of any type unless you're using two of them through the same piece of pro. I assume you're simul climbing while placing a few pieces? I'd use a half rope that's rated for lead falls but I've been accused of being overly cautious. I'm sure you could do it and get away with it. I'm not sure the manufacturer meant for you to double up the same rope with a butterfly and transform it into a pair of twins. :) Not sure what the fall forces would be at the knot. Anyone else know?

WyomingSummits wrote:Twins aren't technically rated for lead climbing of any type unless you're using two of them through the same piece of pro.

Thats what I mean by tying in to both ends and using them as you would normally use twin ropes. The only difference would be that the follower is connected by a figure 8 on bait with a locking carabiner or a butterfly knot.

If the leader is tied into both ends and belayed on both strands, then he's fully protected. Downside is you're limited to 30 m pitches. There's no problem with the second tying into a figure-8 on a bight, locking biner-ed to his belay loop. It's not the preferred method when the end of the rope of available to tie in directly (eliminates a few links in the chain), but it's fully strong.

If I'm understanding you correctly you're basically just doubling the rope over and using it as you would if you had 2 30m twins (except for the follower's tie in). In which case yeah, that's fine.

Willie Wilson wrote: I was thinking we could have the leader tie in with both ends and follower tie in with a butterfly knot or figure 8 in the middle. Will this work? We usually just simul with 30m 9.8mm rope but were thinking of doing this so we still have the opption of 30m rappels.

Very common. Nothing wrong with it. Great way to pair down the rack - as long as the pitches are 30M or less (or simul'ing - in your case).

Go get it!

J Antin wrote: Very common. Nothing wrong with it. Great way to pair down the rack - as long as the pitches are 30M or less (or simul'ing - in your case). Go get it!

Good to know. I always dealt with taking two ropes for the raps. Only simul climbed with singles. Nice to know I can take a light twin and double it like that. Speaking of which, has anyone climbed with the Beal Gully yet? Weighs in at 36gr per meter and is 7.3mm. That's about as light as you can get and is certified as both a twin and half rope.

It is a common approach.

Only comments:
1. if you don't plan to untie often, consider tying into the middle of the rope with a bowline on the bight.
2. one advantage of a single rope is that you can use a microtraxion to stop the leader dying if the second slips.

You can use a Climbing Technology RollNLock instead of a microtraxion, it´s lighter and takes two 7.5´s easily.

Jim Titt wrote:You can use a Climbing Technology RollNLock instead of a microtraxion, it´s lighter and takes two 7.5´s easily.

What's the drag like with 2 ropes through it? (i keep meaning to pick one up)

Seems to me like you could still use a microtrax: The lead fall would be caught by both ropes (same as always), and the top-rope fall would be caught by one rope (not ideal, but not crazy stoopid).

doak wrote:Seems to me like you could still use a microtrax: The lead fall would be caught by both ropes (same as always), and the top-rope fall would be caught by one rope (not ideal, but not crazy stoopid).

you would need to be very careful that the rope without the trax could not apply enough force to the leader to pull her off. but i guess it would be ok

David Coley wrote: What's the drag like with 2 ropes through it? (i keep meaning to pick one up)

About 152g with my 7.8´s in a top-rope situation, 2m of 2 strands starts to self-feed. The other way up an 80g karabiner is enough that it slides down the rope.

Jim Titt wrote: About 152g with my 7.8´s in a top-rope situation, 2m of 2 strands starts to self-feed. The other way up an 80g karabiner is enough that it slides down the rope.

Thanks Jim.