Mountain Project Logo

Best Trad Harness?

Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255
Dave Bn wrote:Several mentions of the WC Summit harness in this thread, has anyone actually had experience climbing with it in the year+ since this thread's genesis? Also curious if anyone has climbed in the DMM Renegade 2 which seems to be very similar in concept to the WC Summit. Both of these harnesses are appealing but only available from retailers that will not allow returns on any climbing equipment.
I've got a summit, got about 40 pitches in it. I like it a lot, definitely has some perks over the Elite Ziplok Syncro, or whatever the last one was called. The only problem I have is the front gear loop is a bright color, but the second one isn't. I wish it was.
Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155

Another Misty Cadillac owner here.

The one thing I don't like about my Cadillac is that the back straps that connect the leg loops to the harness are static straps instead of elastic, and they're just short enough so that if I'm in a very "butt out" seated position they end up cinching tight on my ass.

That being said, I asked MM about it and their response was "send it to us and we'll change them for you free of charge". So at this point the only reason I don't have the elastic straps is that I've been too lazy to send it to them. If you ordered a new one though they can swap them out for elastic if you ask. They'll pretty much do anything you want to a harness if you ask, really.

Aside from that, it's super comfy and I like the 6 gear loops.

Dave Bn · · Boise, ID · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 10
Josh Olson wrote:The only problem I have is the front gear loop is a bright color, but the second one isn't. I wish it was.
Just out of curiosity, is this an aesthetics complaint or are the second gear loops not as visible?
Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

I don't think I'll ever climb in anything except a Cadillac ever again.

Mike Grimm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 0

The new Cadillacs have elastic holdups as a stock feature.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,241

I most often rack on my harness, and four gear loops is adequate. Seven seems a lot? Dunno though, beyond a modicum of comfort, I admit I do not delve deep into harness particulars.

Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155
Colonel Mustard wrote:I most often rack on my harness, and four gear loops is adequate.
It really depends on the climber, the route, and the size of the gear loops. Some harnesses with 4 loops have really big loops that end up providing just as much space as a 6 loop harness, so the only benefit of the extra loops is for organization. When I picked up my Cadillac I went from a sport-oriented harness with 4 small gear loops, so it really was a big difference. It was pretty much impossible to rack a full double rack on my old harness for multi-pitch climbs so I'd end up having to put my slings over my shoulders. Now I have enough room for the full rack including the alpine draws on my harness. I also like having the overlapping loops, as it lets me put more of my gear towards the back, keeping it out of the way when I climb.
Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

I haven't used any other harness but the Petzl Adjama for an extended period of time. I am really happy with it in the alpine. It's comfy, i don't feel my harness cutting into me on a hanging belay. Only 4 loops, but there are tons of little loops to which you can clip biners, and make them gear loops.

I clip all my draws to a large biner, on the small loops in between the gear loops, ordered by size. That leaves my gear loops for just gear, nut biners and 2 QDs. It's not cumbersome or hard to reach(perfect for me) and I feel like I could add another rack(making 3) on there and it might feel a bit tight then.

Josh Olson · · Durango, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 255
Dave Bn wrote: Just out of curiosity, is this an aesthetics complaint or are the second gear loops not as visible?
Second gear loop is definitely not as visible. Very similar color to what is under it.
B.S. Luther · · Yorba Linda, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 65

Dave Bn,

Got about 6 months of climbing in the WC Summit, mostly trad, single and multi pitch.

Description: Body is definitely in the lightweight category. I don't know how the actual weight compares, but the webbing is on the thinner side and I think generally if you pick it up, you'll think of it as such, whatever that means to you. Gear loop setup is as if you took your standard 4 loop harness and tacked on 3 additional, smaller loops. One right on the back above the haul loop, and 2 more smaller loops, one on each side. The additional loops on the side are each positioned, respectively, directly above where the 2 larger loops meet. There's no gap in between the 2 "standard" loops to make room for the additional loop, it is simply positioned right above them. It's got 2 buckles on the waist belt, one on each side of belay loop.

Opinion: Overall, quite good. Couple things I'd change, but considering I got the harness for it's gear loops, I'm happy with it. Initially I was pretty disappointed by the side gear loop setup I described above having the extra small loop above and overlapping with the standard ones. I didn't really like that on the Cadillac, although I only tried that harness briefly, because gear got cluttered and hard to get to once it was stacked. That being said, after some use, I actually quite like the Summit's setup. The small loop can take 3-4 pieces pretty easily without really overlapping/tangling with the other 2 loops. If I've got a standard double set of cams, I put my #1, #2, and #3 on the little guy. That means my front loop has got #.75 and down and some nuts, which even with a ton of aliens down to black, leaves it pretty convenient, and now you've still got the "side rear", the other full size loop on the side, for runners, loose biners, etc, and a small loop in the way back for your anchor building stuff, shoes, water, etc.

What I'd change if I were king: The 2 waist belt adjusters are pretty damn pointless in my opinion, and the front of the harness does NOT sit well as a result of them. They attached foam pads to the belay loop are and then the waist past the buckles and it just in practice doesn't really line up well, at least for me. I'm probably gonna cut some of the padding off as it just goes helper skelter and doesn't give any real padding. Also, I'm a pretty solid 34" waist and the 32-34" size is tightened down alllll the way. I have to fold back some of the padding to get it tight enough some days..
Also, I don't really care about weight on a harness, because even the biggest ones I've climbed in have never even registered on my internal scale. So I would just beef it up a bit, although it's pretty comfy at hanging belays as is.
Finally, I'd make the rear gear loop a standard size big one. No reason not too it seems like, as it's not competing for room, but it gets it done as is.

Hope that helps you make a decision. Like I said, I like it, especially the gear loops, which is my main concern, and it's comfy, fit and adjustability could just be improved in my opinion. I wouldn't be surprised if the next model has a different waist belt setup as everyone who sees it agrees it's kinda wonky and really not serving much of a purpose.

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114
B.S. Luther wrote:The 2 waist belt adjusters are pretty damn pointless
They are great if you use your harness in the winter for ice/mountaineering. The two adjustment points allow you to layer AND keep your harness centered.

MM Cadillac fan here. I can't see myself using anything else. Great guys to work with to get just the features you want, where you want them.
Dave Bn · · Boise, ID · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 10
B.S. Luther wrote:Dave Bn, Got about 6 months of climbing in the WC Summit
That was an awesome review, thanks!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
Post a Reply to "Best Trad Harness?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.