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Dolomites - Cortina Area - Rackless?

Original Post
wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10

Going to be spending a few days in the Dolomites with the lady. I will be rackless but would love to get at least one day in of multi pitch. I have found a few guiding services but their quote was over 300 euro for the day.

Is that pretty much the going rate?

Any suggestions?

We were looking to stay at Rifugio Dibona or Rifugio Lagazuoi but open to any ideas.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 15,153

You going rackless AND ropeless or just rackless? If you've got a rope and some draws, there are fully bolt-protected routes at Cinque Torri Group more or less across the highway from Rifugio Dibona.
If all else fails, there are some super fun via ferratas right above Rifugio Dibona so take your harness and either rent via ferrata load-limiting lanyards in Cortina or make one out of some old climbing rope (as I've seen done out there) and plan on not falling. As a climber, the via ferratas are easy and fun.

Dustin B · · Steamboat · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,275

300 Euro a day sounds about normal. Cortina is expensive also.

Agree with what Jason had to say, Cinque Torre has some stuff to do if you have a rope and some draws, there is lots of spoort climbing nearby, and Sass Dlacia has some multi pitch sport climbing.

But if you have no rope and rack, just take the harnesses and do the Via Feratta thing, there's a ton there and they are mega fun.

D Snyder · · Golden, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 60

There are also excellent Via Ferrate in the area some of which can be fairly challenging. Look into "Sci Club 18." Excellent fun, long with many vertical secitons: planetmountain.com/english/…

There are many choices all good fun. planetmountain.com/english/…

Gorgeous area with beautiful scenery, excellent food, interesting history and culture.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

My wife and I spent several days there while touring around on our honeymoon. We just hiked and did some via ferrata. Frankly, I think if you're springing for the cost of going to Italy then 300 euros isn't crazy if you get a really good ascent in. If I had a day in Switzerland and no partner then I'd spring for a guide to do the Piz Badile. Think of it as an opportunity cost.

I would visit the Michael Chessler web site and buy a via ferrata guide or some other appropriate guide and figure out what you want to do and decide where to stay based upon that. It's a terrific, beautiful area so you'll have lots of options.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
D. Snyder wrote:There are also excellent Via Ferrate in the area some of which can be fairly challenging. Look into "Sci Club 18."
Via Ferrata routes can be lots of fun. I'm eager to get back to the Dolomites to repeat some (though several of the newer ones in Austria are better). For some specific English-language beta on several routes, see these links

. (the modern German guidebooks are more accurate and better designed than the English ones, if you can read a little German)

warnings:

  • With the standard-design via ferrata kits, the steel cable and anchor configurations of most routes is designed mainly for using the cable and anchor points for aid, not protection. And over 90% of Via Ferrata climbers grab onto the cable for aid (instead of putting their hands on the rock to make moves). Taking a fall is generally a very bad idea -- like taking a high Fall-factor leader fall, often with the possibility of hitting ledges or protructing rocks (or anchor posts) along the way.
  • If you climb a route on which you are strong and competent, but your partner might take a fall, bring a short rope, some slings and carabiners, and a belay device (or Munter hitch) so you can belay them on any place they might fall.
  • If you want the fun of trying moves difficult enough so that you might fall yourself, then purchase a special non-standard Via Ferrata kit made by Skylotec, which works on the VF cable sort of like a top-rope solo device on a climbing rope.
  • Many VF routes in the Dolomites have loose rock (think like "limestone"). Definitely bring and wear a helmet, and put some thought how to avoid climbing under other people.

... (VF "Sci Club 18" had a notable amount of loose rock when I climbed it about a year after it opened. Perhaps it's better now that more has been kicked off?)

  • You do not want to be near a long steel cable any time there might be lightning -- like often later afternoon in the Dolomites.
  • The more difficult VF routes are generally not more spectacular or more fun than the easier VF routes, so there's no harm in starting with easier.

Ken
wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10

Was looking at the Cinque Torri Hut for lodging which is right at the base of Cinque Torri.

What kind of sport climbing is in this area? From what I am reading "...Cinque Torri: Aboundance of sinlge and up to four pitch climbs, lots of fixed anchors, ideal for courses of all levels, 10 min approach from parking, exceptional view"

But I am having a hard time finding online route guides...

Is there much sport under 10a in this area?

Also reading that Sella Pass has a lot of sport?

Thanks!

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,788

I was at both places last September. We just looked at routes and worked our way up with the occasional "local" passing by giving us the beta. Friendly folks everywhere. We used this site but it lacks a bit. There are guides but you have to read Italian or German, usually.

Unless you really want to stay in the rifugio, just drive there. We stayed in Canazei and it was a beautiful drive. You park literally minutes from the rock.

Sella Pass has a lot of sport but we did the long trad stuff. There was a guide in Val di Gardena but we passed on it. Canazei had a rock shop with the guide but we didn't buy it.

Have fun.

Bruce Hildenbrand · · Silicon Valley/Boulder · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 3,615

There are some sport climbs at the Cinque Torri on the Cima Grande Sud to the west of the start of the Via Miriam. One pitch and in the 5.8-5.10a range.

brenta · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 75

For sport routes on the Cinque Torri, there is this page at Planet Mountain and a few related ones.

The page refers to a guidebook that is supposed to have descriptions in Italian, German, and English and that covers other crags.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
brenta wrote:The page refers to a guidebook that is supposed to have descriptions in Italian, German, and English and that covers other crags.
Sounds like the book with a title like Arrampicata Sportiva Cortina{?} -- it's sold in lots of places around the eastern Dolomites, like tourist shops, newsstands.

There's surely lots more sport climbing in areas other than Cinque Torri. But for easier bolted routes C.T. could work (my memory is a bunch of half-pitch routes mostly less than 5.10a on the north side of the Torre Latina?) -- and the Cinque Torri is pretty spectacular just for a loop hike, even if you don't climb anything. The drive into the Rifugio Cinque Torri is not trivial -- but you can reach the climbing or hiking for a single-day visit without going to the Rifugio, by taking the lift up instead.

Sella pass sport climbing (and lots of other crags and bouldering not in the Cortina sport guidebook) is covered by a modern German-language guidebook. Again I bought my copy at some local shop. Includes enough sport climbing to last several months (or years?).

But from a "tourist" climber perspective, what's special about the Dolomites is the long mountain Trad routes and the Via Ferrata routes, not the sport climbing. So if you're not doing the Trad, then rent a Via Ferrata kit and try one or more of the VF routes.

Ken
wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10

Thank you for all of the advice!

It is really tough to piece together a trip with a language barrier.

If we were to just do via ferrata what would be a good Rifugio to stay at? Would the dibona or Giussani be a good start?

RKM · · Alpine, Utah and Almo, ID · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 2,233

I'm not suggesting going RECKLESS, but - just take some shoes and a chalk bag. There are so many moderate, yet unbelievable routes around Cortina with easy approaches, long ridge climbs, great rock, true summits, etc. that one might consider climbing by yourself.

Also, I suggest just staying in a hotel in Cortina. Not much more $, but plenty more to do and eat and see. I love the Hotel Olimpia, modest rates, modest accommodations, great people. hotelolimpiacortina.com

brenta · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 75

As you may have noticed, Rifugio Dibona is reachable by car, while Rifugio Giussani requires a hike. It means that the former is closer to a standard hotel, while the latter gives you more of the hut experience. Depending on how long you plan to be in the area, you may want to try one not-so-comfortable night in an awesome place, and recover the next night in town (or some such combination).

If you opt for a ferrata, say the Lipella, my experience is that a helmet is the most important piece of gear. Bring a headlamp too.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608
brenta wrote:If you opt for a ferrata, my experience is that a helmet is the most important piece of gear.
Many via ferrata routes in the Dolomites have substantial loose rock, and parties above you can be fairly clueless about kicking it off.

Besides the helmet, doesn't hurt to start early (or choose a less-crowded day in a less-crowded season). As one wise old climber said, "It's not like getting hit in the shoulder by a rock is so great either".
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Not sure if you're renting a car or not, but you don't need to stay in a rifugio to climb via ferrata. Some yes, but others are pretty road accessible or by ski lift, assuming they're running. We stayed in Corvara and did the Gran Cir ferrata easily from the road. I hiked up to the Piz Boe (since the ski lifts hadn't started for the summer) but turned around at the base since the wife was sick in the hotel room and, well, it was our honeymoon. We would have done the Tridentina but were using public transport, which didn't stop near that trailhead.

Again, if you can score a guide, study that and let that determine where you should stay.

PTR · · NEPA · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 10

Did a week in Cortina many years ago. Did a few VFs, plenty of hiking, wine tasting, etc. Mixed some camping with a cheap hotel or two when my girlfriend needed a break from the tent and a decent shower. We used public transport to get around as well as our thumbs. The VF on Col Rosa -- just north of Cortina -- was good fun and a good warm-up. Technical/cabled sections short and not too difficult. Lots of old WWI stuff to see as well. Also did a VF on Cima Cadin near the Rif. Padova. Very doable from the lake (Cadore) in a day. We even had time to hitch back to Cortina. This one was the "fire-ladder" type -- with vertical ladders doing most of the work -- lots of exposure.

wankel7 · · Indiana · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 10

How does one find out about the public transit options once you are in Cortina?

I think we will be staying at rifugio averau and would love to not get a car. The cars are cheap but the insurance is pretty pricey.

Thanks!

anthony509 Excelsior · · Austin TX. formerly las ve… · Joined May 2009 · Points: 77

Planning the same sort of trip. Thanks for starting this post.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,788

We rented a car so I can't help with the public transport option in Cortina. They must have buses occasionally. You will need to take one to the chairlift to Cinque Torri's refugios. Once there, the climbing is a mix of sport and trad routes (usually with lots of pitons) from one to couple pitches. Fun towers to climb.

Some credit cards include insurance if you use them to rent your car. Check it out. I was very glad to have a car in the Dolomites. We drove a lot. It was well worth it.

The road to the rifugio at Cinque Torri is narrow and paved. But no problem in our car.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

If I go again, I will absolutely rent a car since it opens up so many more options for a relatively small cost (c. $100/ day) when compared to the cost of traveling in Europe in general. We spent a whole day traveling by bus fron Bolzano to Corvara, whereas if we drove it would've taken perhaps 2.5 hrs. Figure that lost time. We didn't really get to see much of the surrounding area for the same reason. Figure that cost into the equation. Though it was not the easiest, we rented a car in Florence to tour Tuscany, and the discoveries on that one day of road tripping were probably the best of the trip. YMMV, but something to consider.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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