Improving Jugging Effeciency (Or, How do people jug faster w/t 2 ascenders vs grigri&ascender)
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In all my Jugging experience I have found a grigri and jug with a 2:1 built to be super easy, but I've seen people jug with two jugs way faster than I have ever gone. Watch some videos of Beth Rodden or Chris Mac run up ropes and you see what I mean. |
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Jon Rhoderick wrote:In all my Jugging experience I have found a grigri and jug with a 2:1 built to be super easy, but I've seen people jug with two jugs way faster than I have ever gone. Watch some videos of Beth Rodden or Chris Mac run up ropes and you see what I mean. I find that when I have 2 ascenders I am probably getting the top daisy height right (cam teeth around nose height), but I can't decide which steps are best for my feet. Often times I find grabbing the top of the upper ascender or even the rope above the ascender helps me. I don't feel like I am shifting my weight between the ascenders in an coordinated way, and the rope never seems to slide through the jugs. My last jug was by far the worst, I had to loan out an ascender to a friend so my bottom jug was a Microscender, which was soul draining to say the least. What am I doing wrong?While facing the rope, typically you have your left foot in rung 3 and your right in rung 5, when referring to full-size aid aiders. This assumes the left ascender is on bottom and the right ascender is on top. If you are doing the leap frogging method, typically your feet would be in rung 4 on both aiders. If you are using alpine aiders, then you might use rung 3 and 4, depending on the aider. It's different for different sized aiders so I suggest checking out the "how to climb big wall" video series on Supertopo. There is a video on there that shows you how to set your ascenders and aiders up, and I used that video series to learn how to climb El Cap. The series is really useful. Most of what you need to know about basic aid can be had in that series. |
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lean into the rock big time! to keep all the weight on your feet, you should not even be resting on your daisys every time you move the top jug up... unless it is overhanging! |
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Second vote for getting in over the rope, particularly on less than vertical stretches. Jug so you're not weighting the daisies at all and with your nose close to the rope and you can make some serious progress. Experiment with your top daisy as well, getting that length dialed was pretty key to getting more efficient for me. |
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I keep my top ascender at around 90% extension and I keep my bottom ascender right in front of my face/neck and I keep the daisy short on the 2nd ascender. I can go 100ft in a matter of 2 mins |
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Mickey Sensenbach wrote:the bottem ascender wont slide up on its own untill there is enough rope weight under it... that means when you just leave the ground or have just tied a back up knot it is frustrating as hell. what do you do? you put your thumb on the cam spiky rope gripping release thing and every time you move the bottem one up you realease it, move up, engage it, repeat...I just came off the Wash columen, I can atest that following is harder than leading most times due to this. |
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With practice you should be able to easily "run" up the rope with 2 jugs on slabby terrain. Get your weight over your feet and go for it. |
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If you are jugging less than vertical, then the Yosemite system [properly tuned] is as fast and efficient as anything. |