Where to get glue for bolts in Denver?

Cor wrote:Yep that totally makes sense.. Spin it in, and it has grooves for the glue to catch and flow in.. Good bonding. Push in smooth or non grooved or whatever you want to call the stock.. Not so good of bonding. It seems like a crap shoot, how would you ever know the glue got completely around the whole unit, and not just on 1/2 or 3/4 of all sides or surfaces... I knew Jim would have the answer! Thanks, as I had never thought of those points before. But I have never placed these. Mechanical works fine for the stone we climb on, and that's all I have experience with.

There´s a fairly definitive test on U bolts and other by Alan Jarvis on climbing.co.za/bolting-info…
Some´s a bit out of date but the results are fairly clear. Worth noting is the clear superiority of the capsule system in sandstone and the considerable variation for U bolts.
There are some other issues with simple design U bolts regarding the karabiner, mainy that on less than vertical rock the gate rubs on the rock increasing the chances of gate-open loading and depending on the shape unclipping is a real danger. Both can be overcome by careful design but no home-builder seems to bother as it makes them harder to make.
Another problem one developer I know had was the size of the U he was using tempted noobs to grab the bolt, not the greatest idea somehow.

20 kN wrote: You dont, and it is quite common to get air pockets in epoxy installations, especially when the bolt is installed perpendicular to gravity (or worse, overhead). I remember seeing an article about glue in bolts that were installed in test tubes. After the epoxy cured, they looked at the tube and then broke it apart to look for pockets in the epoxy. They found many of the installations had air bubbles that were not visible from the installer's point of view. However, a good installer can install the bolt with minimal chance of a large air bubble. You just have to be careful. Dont slam the bolt in quickly, insert it slowly.

Don't forget the pumping action! ;-)

I think it's interesting that there are still so many oppinions out there. It must stem from the fact that not all developers have the same budget or the same access to reasonably priced hardware.

It used to be that people would argue about the type of metal a bolt/hanger should be. Then it was mehanical vs. glue-in (in certain areas), and now we argue about what type of glue or epoxy is better and what shape of bolt is easier to install.

I think that people will buy what they have the budget to buy, and even then they will try to make it go durther that it should. I remeber nights where I was thinking "do I really need that much glue in this hole?"

Most people do what it takes to get routes equiiped for the short term an then try to justify it afterwards. And this is sad because the testin and knowledge base has come a long long way in the past decade or two.

Interesting responses! Thanks guys,
As I sit here reading after a good day of climbing
Beside the ocean here at long dong wall in Taiwan!
Fun times with fun people!

Ryan Williams wrote: I think that people will buy what they have the budget to buy, and even then they will try to make it go durther that it should.

Probably true, but it shouldent be. If you cant afford to buy the right material, you shouldent bolt. Bolting is not the place to take short cuts. A $400,000 hospital bill costs more than many lifetimes of bolting huge walls.

20 kN wrote: Probably true, but it shouldent be. If you cant afford to buy the right material, you shouldent bolt. Bolting is not the place to take short cuts. A $400,000 hospital bill costs more than many lifetimes of bolting huge walls.

I´m shocked, that´s verging on communism."Do what I say for the benefit of the community".

Here´s a concept more in keeping with American freedoms, capitalism and the traditions of climbing:- If the climbing community can´t work out a way of financing the bolting THEY would like then they have no say in the matter.

Jim Titt wrote: I´m shocked, that´s verging on communism."Do what I say for the benefit of the community". Here´s a concept more in keeping with American freedoms, capitalism and the traditions of climbing:- If the climbing community can´t work out a way of financing the bolting THEY would like then they have no say in the matter.

Not wanting other people to ghetto rig routes is communistic? I can see that.



And America is not really a capitalistic economy, it's a predatory monopolistic economy. It's not really true capitalism when a few people hold all the cards and they synthesize their own economy.