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Routes in Chicken Head Ranch
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Bart's Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beaks and Feet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Buzzsaw, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Little S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chicken Spit S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cluck Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Colonel Jack's Dixie Chicken Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crystal Key, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Escape Hatch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Extra Crispy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finger Lickin' Good S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fracture, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Funky Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Measure Up, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mini-Slab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mini-Splitter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Raining Chickens S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Super Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Thunder Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unjust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wank Variation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wishbone Dihedral S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Yellow Dot S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,679 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Haas on Jun 23, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This is an exceptional crack route on the northeast corner of Chicken Head Ranch. Cruise a crack in the corner to the left and then transition right to the main, thin line. This can feel slightly sketch here, but a #3 Camalot on a sling in the corner should work fine. Bomber (but slightly painful) finger locks lead to an even thinner crack where crimpers just so happen to be perfectly placed outside the crack. Make a long reach to a fist/hand jam and then you have cruiser climbing to the bolted anchor. The climbing was pretty continuous, but no move felt harder than 5.11b. I'm not sure why it's rated 5.12 in the Anderson guide. It is good though and is definitely worth doing, so don't let the guidebook grade scare you off.
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