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10-Point Crampons for Hard Alpine Ice/Mixed Climbing?

Original Post
Karl Henize · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 643

I will be spending more time on extended international expeditions, where my crampons spend the majority of the time in my pack, rather than on my feet. So, I want to use the lightest crampons that can safely climb the occasional alpine WI4/M5 pitch on AD to D routes.

Some models, such as the black diamond contact, seem to have adequate front and secondary points for vertical front-pointing. So my question is, for someone who wants to occasionally wants to get vertical on moderately difficult alpine routes, are 10-point horizontal crampons the best option? Are 2 extra down point really worth the weight for technical climbs.

If not, what would you recommend?

P.S. I have used Sabertooths, Cyborgs, Rambo 4s, and G22s.

I found that the G22s felt like roller skates, but adequate, when using french technique on 30-60 degree slopes. However, I did not like the mono-rail design for mixed ridge climbing.

Mike Hasse · · New York, NY · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 365

I've done some alpine mixed climbing in my BD contacts before, and it's definitely do-able. I have the full contact strap and I was using them on Trango s Evo lt boots. The fit was as good as I could get it, but the front points still shifted around after a while, they're just not designed for extended kicking like that.

Now I go with Sabretooth's for just about everything. You need to be careful though, as there have been some failures of the stainless steel frontpoints that Black Diamond hasn't adequately addressed (Dane's blog Cold Thistle has some good articles on it). These failures seem to affect the step in model much more than the hybrid model, which I use. If those are too aggressive, or you're worried about the stainless steel, I might check out Grivel Air techs. They seem like they might be perfect for what you want, though I've never used them.

James Hicks · · Fruita, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 131

I have been using the Grivel Air Tech New-Matic's for a couple years now. They have been great on everything from long glacier walks to steep couloirs and up to around WI4+ and some easy mixed as well. The fact that the new matic's have the rear bail on them makes them infinitely more dependable and sturdy when things get tougher, at least IMO. There is a bit of weight difference between the New Matic and the New classic air tech's though. I think its around 12 ounces. But the New Matics are still lighter than the G22's are.

Overshot03 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 95

Looking for any more follow up on using the Air Tech as an all around crampon. I am looking at the new classic version and would like to be able to handle steep trails and short near vertical sections of trail. No waterfall ice.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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