Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3 from 81
votes
Routes in Willow Springs South
|
Abdominizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Above, Above and Beyond T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Beyond and Above T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Cereal Killer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Chutes and Ladders T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Count Chocula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
Double Pin-etration T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Fruit Loops T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Fun And Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Geezer's Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Gimpy Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Hawk Eye T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Headless Chocolate Bunny T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Honey Combs S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Little Black Book T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Lucky Charms T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
N'Plus Ultra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Nadia's Nine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
New Hips Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
New Hips Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Pillar Talk T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Senior Moment T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Sleeper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Taking Care of Business T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Wheat Thick T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | FRA- C. Long and D.McNair |
| Page Views: | 6,435 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | cassondra l on Apr 14, 2010 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Deliciously steep and highly aesthetic, Chocolate Tranquility Fountain is a worthwhile objective after climbing any of the routes in the vicinity of Pillar Talk. Located on the level where the lower routes top out, this line is hidden inside a chimney on the beautifully varnished and heavily pocketed Supra Ultra Wall.
From a rectangular block, climb up into the chimney on light colored rock to reach a finger crack running up through solution pockets on the righthand wall. Enjoyable climbing on interesting features leads to a flake where the crack ends (crux.) Continue past a thin horizontal seam as the angle eases and holds get bigger toward the top. Spread out and relax on the comfy belay platform. Walk off (mostly 3rd class with a few 4th class moves.)
From a rectangular block, climb up into the chimney on light colored rock to reach a finger crack running up through solution pockets on the righthand wall. Enjoyable climbing on interesting features leads to a flake where the crack ends (crux.) Continue past a thin horizontal seam as the angle eases and holds get bigger toward the top. Spread out and relax on the comfy belay platform. Walk off (mostly 3rd class with a few 4th class moves.)
Location
Chocolate Tranquility Fountain is situated about half way between the tops of N'Plus Ultra and Pillar Talk, 100 or so feet back. Although most of the route is hidden from view, the exposed right side of the Supra Ultra Wall, on which it is located, is clearly visible from the parking lot. Supra Ultra Wall is easily identified by a short, right-slanting finger crack and odd looking pockets which constitute the line of Above and Beyond (5.9,) a route several feet to the right of CTF. Both routes may be accessed by climbing any of the routes in the Pillar Talk area, or by scrambling up the walkoff of N'Plus Ultra.
To descend from Chocolate Tranquility Fountain, head climber's left directly from the belay (south)and step over the head of the chimney. Then continue south and scramble down past a hole, and continue further down and a bit left to a pine tree on a ledge with a cairn. Go left (north) a short way on the ledge and around the front of a huge boulder (another cairn.) Circle back north and west to reach the base of the wall (about 5 minutes). Rappel Sleeper with a 70m rope (just barely makes it to the ground with stretch) or walk off N'Plus Ultra on the left (south.)
To descend from Chocolate Tranquility Fountain, head climber's left directly from the belay (south)and step over the head of the chimney. Then continue south and scramble down past a hole, and continue further down and a bit left to a pine tree on a ledge with a cairn. Go left (north) a short way on the ledge and around the front of a huge boulder (another cairn.) Circle back north and west to reach the base of the wall (about 5 minutes). Rappel Sleeper with a 70m rope (just barely makes it to the ground with stretch) or walk off N'Plus Ultra on the left (south.)
15 Comments