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Best OW in Colorado?

Original Post
Ed L · · Slowida · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 80

I just tore my ring finger A2. It will heal in good time but in the immediate future I need some ideas of the best offwidth climbs around. Single pitch, multipitch, alpine routes, whatever is quality.

I am looking for splitter style lines without cheater crimps that I may be tempted to use with my sad torn finger. I would like to avoid cracks smaller than fists as cups will wreck my healing and the temptations of locker fingers may prove to be too great. Hands...maybe in a week or two.

Thanks in advance for your ideas. I have been avoiding ow like the plague but am trying to bring something positive out of this 'down' time.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

Vedauwoo.... It's essentially in Colorado.

As for the front range, ummm, Huston Crack in Boulder Canyon and the Grand Girraffe crux pitch (though, the climbing up to that point would make your A2 less than a happy camper)

For my money, I'd head to Turkey Rocks in the South Platte. Sidewinder is a highlight, but that whole part of the crag has plenty of OW.

I think the basic problem is that it's hard to find a pure off-width almost anywhere that doesn't offer temptation to use your injured finger at least a couple of times during the route. That of course doesn't apply to Indian Creek, where you could EASILY climb the wide all day without even seeing a crimp or hand jam.

Not super helpful, I know. Maybe this would be a good time to tick off some rad 14'ers before the summer crowds and just stay away from climbing a bit longer to really let the injury heal.

Jim Amidon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 850

Wolfs tooth.....Lumpy.....

Crack of Fear.......Lumpy

Kor's Flake.....Lumpy

Original Cruise route in the Black Canyon.....

Maxito · · CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 540

Road Warrior on Black Wall, Mt. Evans?

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,381

"Meat Pipe" on the Taj Mahal in Jackson Creek. In the "rampart range road" section of the S. Platte here on MP.com

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,525
Maxito wrote:Road Warrior on Black Wall, Mt. Evans?
+1!!!
Kent Pease · · Littleton, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,066

The Maelstrom in the S. Platte is classic (currently closed though).
Many in Escalante (In CO although it requires a drive from the Front Range).

Also see a similar recent post.

mountainproject.com/v/off-w….

Kirk Miller · · Catalina, AZ and Ilwaco, WA · Joined May 2003 · Points: 1,824

Another closed area, Split Rocks, had this badass offwidth route named Animal Magnetism...

Anyone out there remember???

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246
Maxito wrote:Road Warrior on Black Wall, Mt. Evans?
Covered in about 10 feet of snow right now
B Gilmore · · AZ · Joined Nov 2005 · Points: 1,260

Go Spuds Go at Grey Rock. Awesome.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,655
The Blueprint Part Dank wrote: As for the front range, ummm, Huston Crack in Boulder Canyon and the Grand Girraffe crux pitch (though, the climbing up to that point would make your A2 less than a happy camper)
Crack A Beer in CCC is pretty good. Handcrack on The Box in the Flatirons is NOT a handcrack, it's OW. And if in Bocan, then there is Coffin Crack and the one next to it. I forget the name.

The Blueprint Part Dank wrote:For my money, I'd head to Turkey Rocks in the South Platte. Sidewinder is a highlight, but that whole part of the crag has plenty of OW.
There's a few on Sunshine wall as well.

Road Warrior on Evans is indeed pretty much OW and pretty good.
Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

+1 for Escalante

Detrick S · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 147

From Kimball's '86 guidebook to lumpy:

OW in Lumpy.

taipan jam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 30

Kirk, I do...I wish I would have tried it eons ago (or perhaps not!?). The land was for sale some years ago and I took another gander with a realtor (kinda~~~ long story...). Since I knew it was closed (unless I had some big bank....) it looked "easier" than what I had remembered. Heh

taipan jam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 30
Ed L wrote:I just tore my ring finger A2. It will heal in good time but in the immediate future I need some ideas of the best offwidth climbs around. Single pitch, multipitch, alpine routes, whatever is quality. I am looking for splitter style lines without cheater crimps that I may be tempted to use with my sad torn finger. I would like to avoid cracks smaller than fists as cups will wreck my healing and the temptations of locker fingers may prove to be too great. Hands...maybe in a week or two. Thanks in advance for your ideas. I have been avoiding ow like the plague but am trying to bring something positive out of this 'down' time.
Ed, sorry to hear about your injury. Feel free join our Voo Boo Boo squad anytime in Vedauwoo. I even bought a "new suit" for this years "informalities". Bring lots of tape, my personal preference is Mueller Euro....YMMV
Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

The Voo is practically Colorado.Have fun.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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