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Looking for a crag(s) recomendation for Northern AZ (or Central AZ)

Original Post
NickMartel · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 1,332

Kristina and I are taking a 2 day trip to Northern AZ (or Central AZ)to celebrate our anniversary. We will be leaving either late Tuesday or early Wednesday so I understand that this is pretty short notice. Basically we are looking for a recommendation from someone up there or who has frequently climbed in the area for a good place to spend 2 days climbing. Things we are interested in based on importance are...

1) Quality climbing in the 5.7-5.11 grade range for sport and/or 5.7-5.10 trad.
2) Nice free camping close to the crag (primitive is fine we don't need water or toilets)
3) Pleasant temps. Tucson just hit 100 it would be nice to go somewhere where the temps are closer to 70's or low 80's.
4) Any rock type other than granite (but this is not critical)

A couple spots we had in mind or are considering are: Paradise Forks, Jack's Canyon/Winslow Wall, or something in Sedona/Oak Creek, finally possibly something in the Prescott area.

We are really hoping to get somewhere spectacular and given the short length of this trip avoid the bumbling that is common on your 1st time at a new place. Also any guidebook recommendations (or just MP if sufficient), Expected conditions, topos, and route recommendations for the area you are suggesting would be greatly appreciated. You can PM me if you don't want the info posted publicly.

Thanks In Advance,
Nick and Kristina

Hendrixson · · Littleton, CO · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 3,290

As a sometimes visitor to Northern Arizona...

  • Jack's Canyon would be a good choice for sport climbing. Multiple aspects allow you to climb in the shade all day.
  • Winslow Wall, while amazing, probably would not be a good choice unless you are climbing solid 5.11. In my opinion the 5.10s tend to be oddly bolted. There are a few choice trad lines in the 5.9 to 5.10 range however.
  • The Overlook gets a lot of sun; the dark basalt bakes; it will be too hot.

You might consider the Hobo Jungle or Isolation Canyon.

Happy Anniversary!
Micah K · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 60

Hobo Jungle, the peaks, the forks, the overlook (not too hot), west Elden.. all good choices. Have fun!

CJD · · Chino Valley, AZ · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 35

Paradise Forks (IMHO) is the gem of northern Arizona climbing as long as you like awesome user friendly cracks. You can also make the more adventurous trip to Volunteer Canyon.

Robbie Mackley · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2010 · Points: 85

No real recommendations as I usually stick to the Lemmon when the mercury rises, mostly due to finances and family responsibilities. But I think I have two of the Preskitt guides I'd be willing to loan you if you choose to go that route. It's probably getting warm up there though.
Just putting it out there.
-Mackley
AKA Pabst Blue Robbie

Jason Young · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,330

Hi Nick! I have only climbed in that area once. It was at the "Hobo Jungle". I was passing through there at around this time of year (last year). The place seems to satisfy all of your criteria. All the routes I did were great, and I believe MP has all the routes and beta for the area (there was a dude putting up new routes while I was there though). Good luck!

fubar · · Babylon · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 55

Paradise Forks is awesome. There's great camping and there might even be water running. Then drive down to Sedona and take an anniversary helicopter ride...

Christian RodaoBack · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,486

The Forks depends on your crack-climbing skills, if they're not solid better to brave the heat and tune them up at the Overlook first.

The routes are shorter and easier, you're less likely to get in people's way, you can walk around fairly easily, etc, etc

j mo · · n az · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,180

One thing to consider is the forks is great in most directions of high winds. The winds have really been howling up here. The forks does better than the waterfall in big wind. Also there is fire in oak creek that no doubt has shut down the wfall for the next few days at best. WWall is the other clear choice for two days of destination climbing up here. Tho the dacite crags around town are sure fun!

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60

Nick, Check out Isolation Canyon. Tons of trad and sport in the 5.7 - 5.11 range. You can camp for free all over the place up there, and That Brewery is literally 300 yards from the Iso parking area.

NickMartel · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 1,332

Thanks to everyone who posted a recommendation on such short notice!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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