Flatiron soloing shoes?

Abram Herman wrote:I previously had the Scarpa Gecko Guides, which were great, ... Just recently upgraded to the new Scarpa Vitamins before a Yosemite trip last week—they cost a pretty penny, but they climb *so* much better than any other approach shoe I've seen

Are the Vitamins even better than the Gecko Guides at climbing (comfort aside)? Are they more comfortable? My main problem with the Geckos, which I consider excellent otherwise, is the tongue that is too thick on the edges so that it chafes my toes raw if I don't protect them with moleskin. When they were new the heelcup was also less than comfortable, but since they've been broken in, that hasn't been a problem.

brenta wrote: Are the Vitamins even better than the Gecko Guides at climbing (comfort aside)? Are they more comfortable? My main problem with the Geckos, which I consider excellent otherwise, is the tongue that is too thick on the edges so that it chafes my toes raw if I don't protect them with moleskin. When they were new the heelcup was also less than comfortable, but since they've been broken in, that hasn't been a problem.

I'd say they are better at climbing—I like the edging part they added at the front, and the shoe feels more flexible and sensitive than the Geckos.

I never had a problem with the tongue on the Geckos like you describe (different foot shape, I guess), but overall I can really say I've never worn a shoe more comfortable than the Vitamins, even in street or hiking shoes. The Scarpa foot last does tend to be pretty perfect for my foot shape though; their climbing shoes always fit me way better than most other brands.

I had the same problem with the heelcup on the Geckos at first, until the were *really* broken in. With the Vitamins I felt it a tiny bit at first (not as much as on the Geckos when they were new), but they broke in very fast and now it's not at all noticeable. Pretty happy with these shoes!

Andy Novak wrote: Spray Lord! ;)

Ha :-) Just trying to give an idea of their comfort—I was expecting at least a few blisters after that mileage, so I was pretty impressed with the shoe.

Boo baa wrote: Still getting the spray off my face. Just looking for the actual message/motivation of the OP. And I'm posting the from the third flatiron, in my PJ's and my bedroom slipperz(which I resoled with butter)

You're kind of an ass hat...God forbid someone ask for other's opininions on an internet forum right?!
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Brian, I use the my La Sportiva Boulder X approach shoe's and love them.

Tony B wrote: Funny, the OP wasn't 1/10th the dick you are being. Yer' hung like a digitally enhanced porn star here. Lots of people scramble in the flatirons, it's OK, really. It's a long tradition. As for the OP: About any tight-fitting sticky rubber approach shoe will do. Dot rubber is better than lugs, all around. Just make sure there is no slop in the toe-box and that you won't get blisters on the downhills if you are sockless. From there, it's down to fit and comfort. Sportiva and 5.10 make some of the better models as far as I am concerned. About 1/2 of the guys I know scramble in Sportiva's Exum Ridge model. That's saying something considering that there must be 20 options to choose from these days- to have one model dominate like that. The 5.10 'Guide Tennies" are the one I'd say I seen next most often.

Nope sorry Tony,

The OP was the total Satan's Minions I'm so humble but guess what not really drop kick and boo baa's reply was RIGHT ON !

I hate any sort of Toe constriction when i am not skiing or climbing hard. Therefore I go for Chacos up most flatirons and other slabs that don't require thin edging. The "pro" soles are for river guides and stick to rock pretty well. They used to make ones with diamond stealth rubber and those are even better.

Abram Herman wrote: I'd say they are better at climbing

Thanks! I'll give them a try.

manyalibo wrote: The OP was the total Satan's Minions I'm so humble but guess what not really drop kick and boo baa's reply was RIGHT ON !

Hhuh?
Did that make sense and I just totally missed it?
There are several ways I can read that, but it is mostly word soup.

And was that "Satans Minions" reference an intentional reference to SMSC?
As in the flatirons-scrambing group?

A few of them have RE'd here, but just with shoe suggestions, as I think guys that regularly do that don't find the idea odd at all.

I just totally missed it? quote>

Yup - nothing has changed since wreck.climbing

Robert D. wrote:(not sure if a clam-slam will work in the same spot...).

+1 for the clam-slam

Eric Engberg wrote: I just totally missed it? quote> Yup - nothing has changed since wreck.climbing

I wouldn't say that. The graphics here are certainly better than ASCII, and there is the "guidebook" aspect.

While the rest of it is entertaining to say the least...

I personally like the 5.10 guide tennies and evolve cruzers, I think the guide tennies are the best choice - they hike pretty well and in my opionion climb better than other approach shoes I have tried. I like how sticky the 5.10 rubber is for soloing too, I fee like it gives me some extra confidence over sturdier but less sticky approach shoes.

Funny enough this thread inspired me to up there tomorrow as I will be close by on business!

While the rest of it is entertaining to say the least...

I personally like the 5.10 guide tennies and evolve cruzers, I think the guide tennies are the best choice - they hike pretty well and in my opionion climb better than other approach shoes I have tried. I like how sticky the 5.10 rubber is for soloing too, I fee like it gives me some extra confidence over sturdier but less sticky approach shoes.

Funny enough this thread inspired me to up there tomorrow as I will be close by on business!

every time i climb the flatirons i always go to the top and i never come down never ever do I come down bout when i descend sometimes my balls are in a serious crunch these towers are SCARY

good pro wrote:every time i climb the flatirons i always go to the top and i never come down never ever do I come down bout when i descend sometimes my balls are in a serious crunch these towers are SCARY

John fucking Long everyone

Brian C. wrote:Thanks to the few people with input. I assumed Flatirons was obvious from the post thread but I guess not. Let me try to be a tad more specific. I solo easy east face routes in the Flatirons often and like I mention tend to be overly cautious as far as wearing climbing shoes as they feel much better than the cheap tennis I own and often will carry a thin rope so I don't have to do down climb routes. Yesterday I forgot my shoes and ended up feeling ok in my old worn out shoes Der Freischutz Sout Ridge but would much rather have had something that climbed better in a few places as my shoes don't friction well at all. Just made me wonder if I could get another shoe that climbed we'll enough so I didn't always have to bring my rock shoes. Does anybody have a recommendation on a good, sturdy tennis shoe or approach shoe that hikes we'll up the trail but doesn't feel like your feet are going to peel off at any moment?

If the main use of this shoe is hiking to and soloing the flatirons, then the Guide Tennie is a great option. They are light so they are also a good shoe to carry with you on alpine stuff where you need rock shoes and something to wear on the descent.

I'm no rock star, and I lead from pitch 5 to the top of the regular route on Fairview Dome in mine, which includes some runout 5.8 friction moves. They are also good for any grade of hand crack as they have a slim enough profile to fit in #2-#3.

The new ones seem to have a bit more structure and a "climbing" toe, with a flat edge like on a rock shoe. That's an improvement over mine, which are just dot rubber all the way to the toe.

Only negatives are that they don't give a ton of support and they are not the most bombproof. Not the best choice for hiking a load up Jackass Pass or doing a big wall, but they would even be OK for those jobs if you used them that way.

Hope that helps. Enjoy.

Thanks for the post, Brian. Great info on shoes-helps me a ton. Coool, I'm sending you a text to get out this week, but this info might make you too fast!

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