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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186
Scott McMahon wrote: Damn dude...Shrinkage man...
Man-gina Alert!!;) After today's heat, 10 Mile might be toast.

Rare routes on Lincoln are in prime shape and might withstand the heat a bit better, but not for long. We did a 2 pitch WI4+ M3 on the North Face, just across the valley from the Sleepy Hallow cabin, 30-40min approach and rap anchors are in place. The other routes that look good are the slabs to the climbers right of Lincoln Falls and the cliff directly above. The steep cliff above has two established routes on the left that are in prime shape. And there is some potential for other routes to the climbers right that "look good," and the death cornice has already collapsed in some spots. Bring a good selection of steel!
First pitch of Sleepy Hallow.

Climbs to the right of Lincoln Falls.
trese · · Salzburg/Innsbruck/Munich · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 125
Mike Walley · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 355

Loch Vale is still in?!?!?!? What else in RMNP is still frozen now?

JonnyC · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 65

Bump for RMNP conditions

Mike Pharris · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 125

Kinda wondering if the climbs up by Black Lake won't come back in with this big storm that came thru. Anybody been up there?

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

Lots of snow in RMNP! Lots of D1 & D2 sluffs occurring. Mt. Powell seems like it has the right formula for Vanquished to form in the near future.

Mt. Powell.
Halletts Chimney
Hallett Chimney.
A good size sluff rolling past a skier on the Tyndall Couloir. If this is your party I have more photos;)
Tyndall sluff.

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

If we get another cold snap things could prime back up in the high peaks!
On Longs Peak the Window had an ice runnel that touches Broadway.

The Window.

The Eight Route had a good size wet slab pull out and wash down Alexanders and the Cables/North Face also had the same type of wet slab instability potential. Alexanders had a lot of ice in it.
Alexanders Chimney.

You can ski from the summit, with the Homestretch in fat condition.
The Homestretch.

mt.wilson · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 45

Taylor B did you get a good look at cables?

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186
Shralpine wrote:Taylor B did you get a good look at cables?
I climbed the Cables Route and it was in good snice condition and a few of the eye bolts are visible. The boulder field had lot of snow! Sorry, I don't have any pics.
Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,800

From Armin on 5/23/14: condition report for Dreamweaver: I encountered steep, wet snow with occasional M2-ish snice. Steep but short step lasting no more than 15 feet. I took both of my BD vipers, which was a little overkill. Next time I would take 1 technical ice tool and 1 shorter mountaineering axe. Dual points with anti-botts were mandatory.

Mike Hasse · · New York, NY · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 365

I'm flying out to CO on Friday hoping for some quick alpine climbing, does anyone know what the conditions on Mt. Evans are like? Forecast looks marginal, but I was hoping to get on some of the moderate mixed routes up there.

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186
Mike Hasse wrote:I'm flying out to CO on Friday hoping for some quick alpine climbing, does anyone know what the conditions on Mt. Evans are like? Forecast looks marginal, but I was hoping to get on some of the moderate mixed routes up there.
Mt. Evans is in good condition and should be for awhile. The biggest issue is the access gate at Echo Lake being closed due to weather, ice on the road, or rock fall and CDOT/NF might not open the gate until 9am on a good day. Check CDOT Twitter for current info.

The Sleepy Hallow Cabin, by Lincoln Falls has seen better days. This sure would make a cool back country hut if it was managed properly!
Looking towards Lincoln Falls.

Sleepy Hallow
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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