Strength training for general fitness?
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Hello everyone. |
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Where's the legs! |
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What he said. It will answer your question with great depth and clarity. |
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Thanks everyone! |
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Hmmm so I came from a similar background (first lifting for sports, then lifting to "get big", now looking at lifting for climbing). |
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I would be careful of legs, and any bulk-building exercises. Many climbers have found that even running and cycling (very low intensity/high rep stuff) can lead to excess bulk that can inhibit climbing. Mark Anderson comes to mind specifically. (There's a blog post about it out there somewhere...) |
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1. + 1 for the Steve House book, Training for alpinism. Or go to Steve Bechtel's site (climbstrong.com) for ideas. |
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Do you guys/girls see leg hypertrophy even with high rep sets? Squats with low weight and ~15 reps? I enjoy squats as they are a great compound move and you can go also lightweight then stand on a bosu or similar destabilizing aid to really hit the stabilizers in your hips/legs. Lightweight squats -> explode up into an overhead press is a pretty good full body move for general fitness. |
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I would say my goals are 1-2 pitch trad with short approaches. I am a backpacker though so having legs and knees in shape are a good thing. |
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Hi Chad,
Two sets of most things is enough. Contrary to popular belief, moderately high reps will actually build mass in most people, especially with multiple sets. Higher weight/lower reps are more likely to build strength and less mass. Personally, I mix it up. Everyone's body responds a little differently to the same stimulus. Tweak accordingly. |
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Thanks Ariel! |
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Aerili wrote:Hi Chad, Former fitness professional/trainer and Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist here. I will add in my basic thoughts without delving too deeply into your specific goals. (Also, I have no idea your age or health history otherwise, current fitness, etc., all of which I would normally take into account.) I think many (most?) climbers in your position would benefit from doing the following: * Rotator cuff training * Lower trapezius training (I's, Y's, T's, W's) * Upper extremity pushing exercises * A little bit of isolation training for the triceps (for balance) * Forearm work only as required * A variety of core exercises that target both abs and low back * Some compound lower body training for knee health and particularly posterior chain training which targets hamstrings Two sets of most things is enough. Contrary to popular belief, moderately high reps will actually build mass in most people, especially with multiple sets. Higher weight/lower reps are more likely to build strength and less mass. Personally, I mix it up. Everyone's body responds a little differently to the same stimulus. Tweak accordingly. Hi Aerili. I always appreciate you sharing your expertise. Thanks! Can you please explain the specific exercises you would recommend for the following: Rotator cuff training Lower trapezius training (I's, Y's, T's, W's) Upper extremity pushing exercises I am sure that others understand what you are talking about, but for a layman like me "I's, Y's, T's, W's" might as well be a different language. Thanks!!! |
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NC Rock Climber wrote: Hi Aerili. I always appreciate you sharing your expertise. Thanks! Can you please explain the specific exercises you would recommend for the following: Rotator cuff training Lower trapezius training (I's, Y's, T's, W's) Upper extremity pushing exercises I am sure that others understand what you are talking about, but for a layman like me "I's, Y's, T's, W's" might as well be a different language. Thanks!!!I found this: I, Y, T, W Formations Forming letters with your arms activates many muscles, with certain ones being ideal for your trapezius area. Lie on your back with your knees bent, feet flat on the floor and arms resting at your side. Extend your arms above your head, thumbs resting on the floor. Your will resemble the letter "I." Return to the starting position. Extend your arms up, but widen them to form a "Y" with your body. Lower your arms to your sides, then extend them straight out at shoulder level, as if making a "T" with your body. Return your arms to your sides. Bend your elbows and raise your arms slightly, making a "W" shape with your upper body. Bring your arms back to your sides to complete the rotation. Hold each letter for 15 to 30 seconds and repeat each two to four times. Here: healthyliving.azcentral.com… |
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Aerili, that's a lot of mobility exercises, no? Not that there is anything wrong with it. |
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I also found this: |
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Chad, your video link is what I meant. The other text link says to lie on your back but this is not lower trapezius training. NC Rock Climber wrote: Hi Aerili. I always appreciate you sharing your expertise. Thanks! Can you please explain the specific exercises you would recommend for the following: Rotator cuff training Lower trapezius training (I's, Y's, T's, W's) Upper extremity pushing exercises I am sure that others understand what you are talking about, but for a layman like me "I's, Y's, T's, W's" might as well be a different language. Thanks!!!Thanks! Did the above help resolve your question? divanamite wrote:Aerili, that's a lot of mobility exercises, no? Not that there is anything wrong with it.Sorry, I don't understand what you mean? All these exercises should help improve stability without compromising mobility... |
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Thanks Chad and Aerili. That answered my questions! |
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Thanks Ariel, that makes perfect sense. |
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P90X 2 is a very well balanced workout involving both body weight and light to medium weights with: CORE, CARDIO, YOGA, UPPER AND LOWER BODY and STRETCHING. It is really easy to follow and required no thought, no gym and accomodates your schedule. Combined with climbing specific or bouldering workouts; I found it really helped me stay healthy and gain strength. No climbing or hiking injuries for years due primarily working on joints, tendons as well as muscles. P90 X involves more weights and promotes more muscle growth. I bought medicine balls and P90x2 on Craigslist (new copy). Easy way to cover all the bases (introduced me to Yoga too!). There are also enough workouts on youtube for free to answer any of your needs. Climbers aging: first to go is metabolism, second is muscle atrophy, third is prostate until finally you become a fly fisherman :) |
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Brendan Blanchard wrote:I would be careful of legs, and any bulk-building exercises. Many climbers have found that even running and cycling (very low intensity/high rep stuff) can lead to excess bulk that can inhibit climbing. Mark Anderson comes to mind specifically. (There's a blog post about it out there somewhere...)yeah cuz squats only target leg muscles not any other muscles like obliques, erector spinae, abdominals, deltoids, trapezius, rhomboids..... hehe |