9.2 Nano vs 9.4 Ion

I am debating between these two ropes. I get a deal on Sterling, so I am going to buy one of these. My last rope was a 9.8 and I am looking for something a little smaller and lighter. I am sure that they are both great ropes, but am hoping for input from folks who have owned them.

FWIW, one of my partners the Nano and it has lasted about a year of multi-pitch / sport projects / some TR.

Thanks for any feedback or advice you have.

NC Rock Climber wrote:I am debating between these two ropes. I get a deal on Sterling, so I am going to buy one of these. My last rope was a 9.8 and I am looking for something a little smaller and lighter. I am sure that they are both great ropes, but am hoping for input from folks who have owned them. FWIW, one of my partners the Nano and it has lasted about a year of multi-pitch / sport projects / some TR. Thanks for any feedback or advice you have.

For all-around use, I would go with the 9.4mm. It will handle a bit better, and it is (slightly) safer. 9.2s can get sliced on just about anything. I know a dude that completely separated the sheath on his Nano while lowering someone. The rope was not running over any noticeably-sharp edges or extreme turns, but that's just the nature of thin ropes--they offer less protection. The low weight of the 9.2mm sure is nice though, although the difference between the 9.4 and 9.2 is minimal.

If you are looking for a rope to send projects on, then the 9.2mm might be better suited. Just make sure your belayer is solid. I would not let just anyone belay me on a rope that thin.

I've never owned either of those ropes but it seems like the weight difference would be so negligible between the two... I'd probably just get the 9.4. Say you did go for the 9.2 - when it wears out, I'd probably be wondering how much longer it might have lasted if I'd gotten the 9.4 instead.

I just went through this rope-shopping dilemma myself. I decided that I'd probably regret having a rope wear out faster than expected more than I'd regret losing a redpoint due to an extra ounce of rope. I now have a 9.7 and so far I'm happy with it. I've never peeled off a hold and thought, "Damn, I need a thinner rope." It's usually "Damn, I need to train, rest, practice, etc.," which I'm positive makes a much bigger difference in performance than 2 mm of rope diameter. I'm a poor college kid, though, and getting good mileage out of a rope is important to me. Your situation may be different.

I wish someone would come up with some real, understandable metric for rope wear. Maybe some test with sandpaper and repeated abrasion or something. I don't know. Obviously everyone's real-world mileage will vary, but I'd like to have some kind of standardized test so we can compare apples to apples.

Own the 9.4. It's great all purpose rope. Would not want to go smaller personally. Plenty of weight savings over a bulkier rope in 70m for the oz counter in me yet pretty damn durable. Did seven days of hard Yosemite/Sierra and a few crag days so far and it's is in brand new condition

Having owned both, I will advise that the 9.4 Ion is a better option for rock climbing. I think it would be unabviseable to top rope on a 9.2 of any brand. Both are suitable in alpine terrain, and on ice. Don't expect to get the same durability out and Ion or Nano as you did out of the 9.8. Skinny ropes don't last that long. Skinny ropes require a strong knowledge of application.

I would get one of each!

I own both of these ropes. The 9.2 which is 80m gets pulled out for specific reasons. On long routes at your limit having a slighter lighter rope to pull up for clips might make the difference but this really does not come into play until at least 80ft off the ground and only if the clips are strenuous.
Also the 9.2 stretches a little more in a fall since I am lightweight a stretchier rope is appreciated.

But for everything else the 9.4 is the better choice.

The nano is incredibly fun. You won't even notice your tied in. The nano is pretty much for redpoint and onsight climbing. If you use a nano for a project rope, then it will not last very long. I bought one for a road trip in December and by summer it was shot. If you are going to project on your skinny rope make sure the routes are steep enough that it never actually touches any rock. It can take some abuse, but not as much as a 9.8. It really is fun climbing with such a small rope, handling is better, clips are quicker, and you are lighter on the actual climb.

20 kN wrote: 9.2s can get sliced on just about anything. I know a dude that completely separated the sheath on his Nano while lowering someone. The rope was not running over any noticeably-sharp edges or extreme turns, but that's just the nature of thin ropes--they offer less protection.

I have been using two Nanos mostly for mixed and dry tool for the last 3 & 4 years respectively. No cuts just general fur and wear, in fact they wear like iron. I see these anecdotes about how ropes are beat after one usage and have to wonder who did the rigging to precipitate such a failure.

In fact over 37 years of climbing I've had one core-shot rope. I have a 9.8 Velocity too, another good line...