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Chinese Water Torture
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 16
votes
Routes in Orange Crush
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Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Opportunist, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Orangahang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tin Monkeys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Ted Hammond, Bradley White, mid 1980's |
| Page Views: | 4,182 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Jul 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Historical description by FA "From the top of pitch 2 of the Original Orange Crush move directly up past 2 pins in a horizontal crack over a bulge (hard 5-10) into a dirty corner slot chimney like depression. Follow this depression until there is an exit right. This direct finish with a intense scrubbing would be a nice addition to this section. I'm sure the pins are rotted out by now. The crack they are in continuously gets and remains wet.
Ted led it and rebuked me for thinking it was a good climb because it was so dirty. I didn't lead it after his epic ascent. It has gone into the void of obscurity, although it was the first of it's kind to this area to reveal what free climbing potential was to become some of the renown climbs of Rattlesnake. It blindsided me to pursuing these other first ascents."
UPDATE - Now fully bolted with glue-ins and it is considerably cleaner. From the Tropicana ledge, the former second pitch of Orange Crush is now combined with this as one pitch. Exciting airy terrain with lots of kneebars! Make sure to take note of the sling recommendations below to avoid potential rope drag.
15 Comments