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Mormon Hollow

Original Post
edennis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Hello,
I have never been to mormon hollow and have some questions.
First, how much sport climbing is there?
Secondly, is there any place I can find info on the routes and grades there?
Thanks,
-Eric

Taylor J · · Taos NM · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 390

Besides the routes listed here I don't know of any other info on the routes there. Some routes are bolted and most have anchors to top rope from what I remember. Of course there is some good trad routes as well. Great rock and some fun climbs, I love and miss climbing there.

climbgneiss.org/index.php/m…

Mike Collins · · Northampton, MA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
mountainproject.com/v/mormo…

Sport wise, there is not too much. Realistically I would only go there to climb priapism. If you climb 12's it is fun other than that I wouldn't spend too much time. There are a couple of hard roof problems that have bolts they are hard 12 maybe 13. If you want sport climbing in that area go to Farley.
Taylor J · · Taos NM · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 390

Mormon is worth visiting if your not grade chasing and just want a great day of climbing in a nice area. And I believe there was quite a few more bolted routes there before they were chopped not sure how many have been replaced if any at all.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I'm sure that Ward Smith and western Ma climbers assc can fill you in

Mike Collins · · Northampton, MA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

it's definitely a sweet place to climb for a day. I was just saying sport wise I felt there were not very many routes other than hard 12's. pretty much all is top rope accessible

edennis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for the responses. I go to Farley often, but figured i would ask about mormon hollow to change things up. I'll certainly go if not just to see the area.

grant kendrick · · northampton, ma · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 100

Hey Eric--I climb at Mormon Hollow pretty regularly--it is a nice change from Farley, particularly on weekends when Farley is mobbed. I think there are four sport limes--5.7, 5.8 and a couple of .12's. Oh, and I guess the short 5.11 on the upper wall that I've never been to. Several good mixed and trad routes, and everything is easily top roped.

Be aware that the bugs are pretty bad there now, and the landowners may have part of the cliff closed for nesting ravens for a few more weeks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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