Flying Dutchman
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3.5 from 82 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Jack Roberts, 1976 |
Page Views: | 5,207 total · 22/month |
Shared By: | Mark Michaels on Aug 10, 2004 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The beautiful, thin, left angling, Mexican Crack-like fissure disecting the middle of the Sail. I've never led this...but I aspire to! The thin crack traverse is 10+, then some 5.8 R climbing above on some suspect flakes. If you're not a hardman, or at least, not a brave one, you can toprope this. Take some Loooong slings for blocks/horns at the top. Can barely rap off this with a 60M rope once you''ve slung the horns. Some anchor bolts on the face just below the top would sure be a nice addition.
EDIT: I did attempt this lead back in the 00's, but cant claim a redpoint. Not calling it stout for it's grade, just a little over my head in my prime. But the hard part protects well, give it a go, or rehearse on TR first.
EDIT: I did attempt this lead back in the 00's, but cant claim a redpoint. Not calling it stout for it's grade, just a little over my head in my prime. But the hard part protects well, give it a go, or rehearse on TR first.
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